Millstone 1999, PX Cask, 14yo, 46%

The very new Millstone PX Cask has just been announced last week by Patrick van Zuidam on Facebook. I was ballsy enough to ask for a sample and he was nice enough to send me some booze!

I thought I owed it to him to taste it really quickly so here’s the review already!

There isn’t much Dutch whisky worth trying and most distilling operations do whisky as a fun side traject. Us Heit makes Frysk Hynder which is very much avoidable. De Molen does some distilling but they’re not there yet. Vallei tried their hand for a while but have long since stopped again. There are some other fledgling operations of which I have never tried anything yet. I think I have a spirit of Eylandt Spirit on my shelf from a distillery in Zeeland, but I’d have to check.

When Zuidam started with Millstone I almost bought a bottle, but the shop I was at recommended me to taste it first. I didn’t end up buying anything. Then I more or less lost interest until Zuidam released their Dutch Rye which is very nice, and later the 100 Rye which is a stunning dram.

I have tried some of their newer single malts, but nothing over 8 years old. Their 12 year old is supposed to be good since it won last year’s Whisky Advocate World Whisky award.

Anyway, now this. PX casks are a bit tricky but can generate some terrific whisky. In combination with Millstone, I’m not sure yet, but let’s see!

Millstone 1999 PX Cask

Millstone 1999 PX Cask

Sniff:
Very intense! I guess I have to set aside everything I know from Scottish Single Malt, since this is produced in a different kind of still and that is very noticable. The sherry isn’t very clear at first. It’s getting more fruity after a minute or two of air, with peach, then honey and nuts. It’s quite genever like and has a massive hit of sellery all of a sudden.

Sip:
The palate shifts a bit towards more obvious flavours and is sweet with quite a bit of kick. Raisins, the sellery is still present but less so. Pepper, sherry and spiced cake. Quite crisp too (which is kind of strange because it’s sherried). A mountain of liquorice, and Wiebertjes and Potter’s.

Potters Original. A very Dutch cough sweet

Potters Original. A very Dutch cough sweet

Swallow:
The finish is again peppery but veers towards the typical sherry notes a bit more. Again, liquorice, and lots of it. The laurel infused kind this time. Sweet, fruity with starfruit, marachino cherries. Not overly long.

I really had to set aside my expectations of any single malt. It’s very different from the style coming from pot stills as they are used in Scotland. When I did that, however, I found a really tasty spirit that challenges everything you know about booze. There’s a lot of different things going on with flavours all over the spectrum.

The sellery is something I’ve never encountered before in any booze, but I kind of like that flavour anyway, so I was good. The combination with spiced cake was a bit strange, but not in a bad way.

So, in short: This is a delightful whisky that really challenges you. Not a real session-drinker if you know what I mean.

Millstone 1999, PX Cask, 14yo, 46%, I don’t know a price yet.

Thanks to Patrick and the team at Zuidam for a sample!

About Sjoerd de Haan-Kramer

I'm a web developer at Emakina. I'm highly interested in booze, with a focus on whisk(e)y. I like to listen to loads of music and read quite some books. I'm married to Anneke, have a daughter Ot, a son Moos and a cat called Kikker (which means Frog, in Dutch). I live in Krommenie, The Netherlands.
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