Littlemill 25, Oloroso Sherry cask finish, 50.4% – Private Cellar Edition

Posted on 16 October 2015 by Sjoerd de Haan-Kramer

A while ago a call was launched on Facebook and Twitter to find people willing to taste and blog about the new Littlemill 25 year old that’s just been released. Obviously, a lot of bloggers reacted and so did I.

It was meant to be a flash blog (like a flash mob) event on Wednesday the 14th of October, and as you can see, this review is two days late. Apparently the mailman did deliver the whisky on Tuesday, but at the neighbors. He didn’t bother to drop a notice so I didn’t know. Anyway, better late than never.

It’s not too remarkable that there were so many people were thrilled to try this dram. Littlemill is been doing very well in the whisky geek community the last five years and the new 25 year old will cost you an arm and a leg. People like trying expensive whisky without paying for it, somehow!

Fun fact. I’ve never bought a Littlemill in my life. I know there are a lot of great casks out there and I’ve been able to try a few of them over the last couple of years. The first I was really thrilled about was the first Archives release from Whiskybase. As far as I see, that was more or less the first indie bottling that scored well and got the ball rolling.

Sniff:
The nose is quite heavy for a Lowlands whisky, but I guess that’s the age and the casks speaking. The rather typical cerael notes, almost porridge like (Bambix) in this case. These notes are surpassed by great smelling oak and lots of light spices. Cheese like at a point, and it builds towards more spicy notes. Strangely, I get notes of haggis!

Sip:
The palate is pretty strong. Not fierce but strong. More so than expected for a 25 year old whisky. Bread, oatmeal porridge and spices. Again that haggis note. Also pear and almond, Brazil nut and maybe some walnut. Slightly bitter. It’s a very complex dram, this. I suddenly get notes of sweet orange too, with caramel and milk chocolate.

Swallow:
The finish is rich and full. Some oak, but less than on the palate and nose. Strawberry, porridge, dark whole grain bread. Quite old and heavy.

Not to sound disrespectful, but this is a weird whisky. There’s an incredible lot of flavors fighting for attention and that makes it a complex sipper that forces you to pay attention.

It’s quite interesting that all the things people find great about Littlemill nowadays are present in fruit, cereal notes and spices too. But, on the other hand the porridge notes that made people dislike the official Littlemills from years ago are here too. Surprisingly, this works.

It’s a very interesting dram and one with so much complexities that it’s hard to pin down. Every couple of seconds new scents and flavors pop up, which is not something I’ve come across often.

Strangely though, I consider this a whisky that’s ridiculously good and very, very interesting. I also consider this a rather too expensive whisky. Littlemill is popular at the moment, and it’s a closed distillery, but compared to the independent bottlers who are selling 25 year old for some € 200 (or less, if I’m not mistaken), this one comes as rather off balance at € 2700 (that is not a typo).

Still, great, great stuff.

Littlemill 25, Oloroso Sherry cask finish, 50.4%, Private Cellar Edition.

Thanks to Loch Lomond Group and The Whisky Wire for supplying the sample!

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Arran 2000-2015, 14yo, 55.5% – OB for The Whisky Exchange

Posted on 14 October 2015 by Sjoerd de Haan-Kramer

Arran is on a roll the last year or two. There have been so many private bottlings you’d almost start wondering if they’re keeping anything for themselves any longer. Almost every independent bottler or bigger shop or importer has had at least one of their own bottlings.

The Dutch market has seen five bottlings in a year (Dark Lord, White Wizard, Bright Early Spring, Big Fat American V8 and The Prancing Horse), and Whisky in Leiden had their festival bottling from Arran this year.

Now let’s hope other festivals are going to be a little inspired instead of following suit since at some point it’s not that useful to just add more Arran to a flooding market. It happened with GlenDronach and Ledaig a few years ago. Every festival and shop bottled their own until everybody stoppped caring.

Anyway, The Whisky Exchange has one too. It’s a 14 year old whisky from a bourbon barrel. They released it at their The Whisky Show about two weeks ago, as they do with most of their bottlings. I love The Whisky Exchange for being so big they can do some 6 bottlings, and a whole battalion of private bottlings in one go.

Sniff:
Lots and lots of barley and quite a bit of dry oak. A very old fashioned profile that I’ve not come across in many Arrans yet. Corky, old apple. Not very exciting and very middle of the road.

Sip:
The palate shows old apple and oak again, with some vanilla and citrus. Pastry dough, a light dusting of baking spices like cinnamon.

Swallow:
The finish is more spicy than the palate (there’s a good evolution of that in this dram) with old apple and a hint of cork. Not overly long.

It’s a strange one, this. Compared to the very fruity Arran I was expecting based on almost all bottlings I’ve had the last months, this one is divergent. It just doesn’t fit the mold. It has a much heavier and old fashioned profile that’s far more focused on oak and spices.

What is very nice is that the finish is great. Unfortunately I find the palate somewhat less great and the nose rather uninteresting. It’s not my style of Arran, apparently. The good thing is that the build up is well done and the end of the whisky is much better than the beginning.

Arran 2000-2015, 14yo, 55.5%, bourbon barrel 2000/1106, OB for The Whisky Exchange. Available for £ 70.95 (€ 101)

Thanks to TWE and Billy A. for giving me a sample!

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Paul John Bold, 46%

Posted on 13 October 2015 by Sjoerd de Haan-Kramer

I never had a Paul John whisky before. I know they’ve been making way for a couple of years now, and that they’ve won a lot of awards. But then again, which distillery isn’t marketing their asses off and which whisky does not win awards?

In my cynical perspective, all that rambling doesn’t mean all that much and by now it’s more rare for a whisky company to NOT win an award than the other way around.

But still, I wanted to expand my horizon a little bit further and when Steve Rush announced a Paul John twitter tasting I decided to apply. I was picked from the applicants and was sent the sample. A nice solo bottle of Paul John Bold. A peated dram to be released soon.

I was doubly happy since the tasting consisted of just one dram. I like twitter tastings, but not the ones that take too long. One to three drams is more than enough. Not because the whisky starts to bore me, but because twitter does. If it takes too long the tasting notes get more and more pretentious, and people make less sense. Also, such a barrage of info, in between all other info when you’re sitting at your computer is just too much after an hour or so.

Anyway, Paul John Bold is a to-be-released soon at a RRP of some £ 46 I believe. It’s a peated whisky without an age statement.

Sniff:
The peat is quite gentle, but thick. There’s big hints of barley too, and a milky scent. The sweetness is rather pronounced, in a rather big and weird way. Like compost. A slightly decaying kind of sweetness. There’s a lot going on on the nose. Also match heads after a while, and some farm yard scent. Vegetal, twigs, oak, autumn leaves and spiced pear. Also, honey but not the smooth Balvenie kind, more a slightly sharp style.

Sip:
The palate is quite feisty with some black pepper and dry oakiness. The sweetness is more subtle. There’s aniseed and the bitterness you get from fresh pineapple. Not the pineapple fruitiness though. The mellows out after a couple of  seconds, and then turns sweetly fruity. Papaya and mango. A hint of vanilla too.

Swallow:
The finish is slightly metallic and there’s some tannins. Lots of wood spices and oak. Dry in an enjoyable way. Some cinnamon and lots of toasted oak.

It’s a weird dram, this. The nose is really nice with a lot of highly enjoyable scents to discover. I love the combination of all things farmy. The earthy and vegetal notes, a hint of sulfur and peat. Really good.

Then the palate and finish happen. They are, unfortunately, not that good. The bar was set high by the nose and the palate and finish don’t live up to it. The finish tries a bit harder but it’s just not that good. A shame, really. Else they’d have a cracker on their hands.

So, a great whisky for nosing, but not one for drinking. Especially at 46 quid, I think it’s a bit overpriced of what you’re getting.

Paul John Bold, 46%. Available soon for some £ 46 (€ 65)

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Ordha, Rare Cask Reserves, 21yo, 47.4% – William Grants and Sons for The Netherlands

Posted on 12 October 2015 by Sjoerd de Haan-Kramer

At the William Grants and Sons masterclass at Maltstock we had this whisky, from a series of semi-custom blends done for customers on request. Kevin Abrook told us this one was for The Netherlands and it was about to be released (right about now, to be precise).

So, we had a small preview of it at Maltstock during that Masterclass. Tony van Rooyen did a pyjama party at the closing night of Maltstock with another preview of this and this weekend was the Whisky & Rum aan Zee festival in IJmuiden which promoted it again.

They’re really pushing it, apparently, and there’s good cause. There aren’t many big fans of blended whiskies in The Netherlands, unless the whisky is from Compass Box, those always go well.

Luckily, I was able to bring a sample of the Ordha home with me from Maltstock. Kevin was nice enough to allow that (I was having a cold, big bummer). So, when I saw it popping up on the festival reports from IJmuiden I thought to give it a whirl again, to see if I was still as enthusiastic about it as I was at Maltstock. Back then I proclaimed I wanted a bottle.

What I was also told at the masterclass was that we can’t know the make up of this whisky since there’s a lot of casks in it that aren’t from William Grants and Sons distilleries.

Sniff:
On the nose I get a lot of woody spices. Also oak, and it’s quite sweet. Indian spices, in a very friendly way. Dried apple, some dried leaves and some light vanilla tones.

Sip:
Oak and spices. Quite sharp from the spice flavors with wood spices. Slightly earthy and a rather weighty palate. Some vanilla, caramel, crème brûlée.

Swallow:
The lightness of the grain whisky is coming through more on the finish than before. Not that that’s a bad thing but it does show it’s a blend a bit more. With the malt whisky counterbalance it’s both heavy and light at the same time. Well balanced. The finish is long and focuses heavily on the spices.

While I can admit I’m loving this whisky, I barely feel this review does the whisky justice. I have a hard time identifying the spices I found (I’m not good at woody spices). There’s some hints of fruit and the oak is well balanced too. I feel they’ve created a really kick ass blend from our wee country. After trying it again this weekend I decided to order a bottle, so I’m picking that up this week.

I’m not sure it’ll go really fast since there are 4900 bottles available for just the Netherlands. That’s a lot in a small country, however big the whisky market is here. I do think that in a time of ridiculous overpricing the retail price of € 125 is quite friendly for a limited release at cask strength.

So, highly recommended!

Ordha, Rare Cask Reserves, 21yo, 47.4%, William Grants and Sons for The Netherlands. Available from Drinks & Gifts in Krommenie

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Ireland 1991-2015, 23yo, 54.9% – The Nectar of the Daily Dram

Posted on 9 October 2015 by Sjoerd de Haan-Kramer

For little over a year now Irish whiskey’s have become vastly more popular than they were for years. At least, to malt whisky fanatics that is. Irish whiskey has always had its fair share of fans for Jameson, Redbreast and a lot of other brands.

Since independent bottlers started focusing on the emerald isle, however, things have picked up a notch or two. The undisclosed single malts that have been released are, simply put, all great. All of them.

The ones that are beyond great and are truly stunningly awesome drams are the 20-something year old bottlings coming from a slew of bottlers. The Nectar of the Daily Drams is one of the bigger parties in this, even though Adelphi was at it earlier with their Limerick bottlings.

At Maltstock, Jürgen Vromans brought a series of these drams for sampling. Unfortunately it wasn’t a masterclass and he was one of the folks who had drams available for a little extra money. Still, things were affordable and although I generally don’t want to spend any money at Maltstock, I bought a sample of this one for taking home. A fiver well spent, I’d say.

Although it’s all undisclosed single malt, there are just two options for this, them being Bushmills and Cooley. The story goes that Bushmills distilled some peated spirit for Cooley in their startup year, but this one from after that period (and unpeated), so my guess is that this is Cooley.

Image from Whiskybase

Image from Whiskybase

Sniff:
The nose is very light and fruity. Quite estery. Some apple and fresh pear, with dried pineapple. There’s hints of barley too, and almost no oak to speak of. I get a hint of lemon on the background.

Sip:
The palate is a bit sweeter than the nose made me expect, and there’s more vanilla than there was on the nose. The pear and apple are back, as is the pineapple but I’m not getting the hint of lemon. Quite spicy after a few seconds of swimming, some white pepper heat. Behind it all is a clear flavor of simple syrup.

Swallow:
The finish is rather nice and quite long. The barley is a little more outspoken and there’s some fruit. Not overly exciting.

Weird. Honestly, I’m a little disappointed by this one. Maybe because I know some others are a lot better than this. Having said that, this is a very relative statement. Mostly because this whisky still is very, very good. It’s just not as good as some others.

Still, if I’d have spent the original € 130 on it, I’d be a happy camper and I’d gladly go through the bottle. The fruity hints that you want from an Irish whiskey of this age are present and there’s almost no oak influence to speak of, which is nice.

Ireland 1991-2015, 23yo, 54.9%, The Nectar of the Daily Dram. Long gone…

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Millstone Rye, 10yo, 58.6% – OB for The Whisky Exchange

Posted on 8 October 2015 by Sjoerd de Haan-Kramer

A little while ago I organized a bottle share of this baby, after tasting some great samples of Zuidam Rye. I got enthused by this one from the moment they announced it at The Whisky Exchange, but I found the price a little prohibitive (£ 84 / € 118).

But, with bottle shares going quite well I thought to give it a go. Billy Abbott was coming to Maltstock anyway, so that way I could save on shipping. The bottle share filled up quickly and last weekend I sent out all samples to the participants.

The same night I tried my sample (all 5cl of it…).

Anyway, Zuidam, the distiller behind the Millstone brand is making some really good rye whisky. I think it can rival the great American rye whiskeys out there and have not yet had another one from elsewhere that comes close. Our club bottling is pretty awesome, their regular 100 Rye is great, and other samples I’ve had were pretty bad ass too.

Sniff:
There’s a lot of oak, but that’s not surprising after a decade in new American white oak. Very spicy with chocolate. Green, wet wood, tree bark and some light peppery hints. It’s sweet with hints of mint and pine, some pesto (basil/pine nuts, mostly). It’s a very interesting combination of heavy and crisp notes.

Sip:
The palate is spicy but I would never have guessed this is almost at 60% abv. Some red chili peppers, slightly sweet with big hints of rye. Bread, black pepper, cinnamon. All quite dry wit bitter chocolate. Full and rich.

Swallow:
The finish is mostly spicy at first, with peppermint and regular mint. Quite long with hints of oak. The ABV is a little more noticeable here.

So, in short, I no longer think the price is prohibitive. I think this is one of the best rye whiskies I’ve had. It’s not really comparable to Sazerac 18 or so, but the fiercely strong Thomas H. Handy is in the same league. I might just prefer this.

The 10 years in oak have given the whisky some depth and a lot of flavors to go around. I absolutely love this. It’s not for nothing that my sample ran out immediately. Shame I haven’t kept more for myself!

The combination of fresh, crisp notes of pine and mint are a great counterbalance for the heavy oak and other spices. I would not have imagined this to work but it really does. I’ve also not had many whiskies with a hint of pesto, but again, it works surprisingly well.

Get this while you can!

Millstone Rye, 10yo, January 2004 to September 2014, cask 667, 58.6% – OB for The Whisky Exchange. Available there for £ 84

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BenRiach 1998, 17yo PX Finish, 48.9% – OB for The Whisky Exchange

Posted on 7 October 2015 by Sjoerd de Haan-Kramer

At Maltstock I generally trade a lot of booze with other people. For some I bring samples, for others bottles. And for Billy Abbott of The Whisky Exchange, I normally bring a few beers and whatever I’ve got lying around that I think he’ll find interesting.

Luckily, that deal works both ways. The guys at The Whisky Exchange got in a couple new bottlings and Billy, being the awesome chap he is, brought some sample of them for me.

Add to that the fact that I am generally quite impressed by what BenRiach releases, and there was one of that distillery in the bag. I am a happy guy, and this is the first one I picked for in depth exploration.

Well, as far as 3 cl samples go, that is. In depth is more like half a bottle.

This is a curious BenRiach as well. It’s been triple distilled, which is something not many Scottish distilleries do anymore. As far as I know it’s only Auchentoshan for all their product, and BenRiach and Springbank for some of it.

Sniff:
The spirit is very light and quite unlike any other BenRiach I’ve had before (I never tried the triple distilled yet). There’s a sherry influence that’s pronounced, but not overpowering and quite gentle. Slightly ‘green’ with wet wood, leaves, barley, that kind of stuff. Also raisins and some other fruits. Certainly PX, with that added sweetness. Some orange after a while.

Sip:
The palate is light again, but shows some ‘spirit’. It’s sweet with tropical fruit. Plums and dates, some peach. Also baking spices with cinnamon leading the way. It gets sweeter as you let it swim, and again, very late there some orange.

Swallow:
The finish shows slightly more sherry with flavors of raisin, spiced cake. Quite consistent with the palate, just a tad more sherry. The clean spirit is noticeable again too.

So, this is an interesting whisky. It’s different on many levels. The PX influence is much lighter than I’m used to from almost all bottlers and distillers. Also, the triple distilled whisky sure makes a big difference between this and regular BenRiach.

The funny thing is that my sentiment towards this whisky is what I’ve had with some drams over the last couple of weeks. At first I don’t really like it, but after I write the review I really want to have more of it. Especially with this dram, and how gentle it is, it would fill a void in my collection that ‘needs filling’. (Like I NEED more whisky…)

So, in short. A very interesting, easy drinking dram that does offer enough complexity to keep you interested in it. Good picking by The Whisky Exchange!

BenRiach 1998, 17yo, Triple Distilled with a PX Finish, 48.9% – OB for The Whisky Exchange. Available for £ 99.95

Thanks to The Whisky Exchange and Billy Abbott for the sample!

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Man walks into a Pub – Pete Brown

Posted on 6 October 2015 by Sjoerd de Haan-Kramer

It’s been ages since I finished a book, let alone one that has some significance for the blog. But, last week I started commuting by train again, and that means at least 40 minutes of reading extra per day. In some cases I don’t even mind delays, depending on which book I’m reading.

Anyway, I finally finished ‘Man walks into a Pub’. Finally does not mean it’s a bad read, but it does mean I didn’t get around to it as quickly as I would have liked.

The book is a history of British pubs, and therefore a history of beer in England. I felt the time was right in reading it now since I’m going to Dorset for a week soon. I should know what I’m getting in to, right? I already checked the Camra website and it seems the Best Real Cider pub of the UK is near where we’re staying. So that’s a good thing.

Anyway. The review in short is: Read this book. It’s awesome. Although it stretches back some 500 years it is nicely focused on the periods that matter, sometimes making jumps spanning decades in which not much happened.

It start with ale houses, inns and stage coaches. While this is all quite interesting I was more interested in more recent times, and that’s where the biggest part of the book focuses on. From the first world war and the temperance movement from that era onward to current times is more than half of the book and it’s very interesting to read how the brewers got bigger and bigger. How the pubs sometimes had to close down because of changing social and economic standards, and how a pub was obliged to open if it had a license in WW2.

Add to that the history of beer itself and what styles were popular at which times, and more interestingly, why they were popular and you’ve got a great read. While all this info might sound a little stale at times, it’s written in a very affable manner and isn’t lecturing at all.

There’s enough jokes and cynicism to entertain me (and I am cynical of a lot of things). The book and more important, the writer don’t take themselves too serious. Also, while I’m not much of a lager drinker, I find it very refreshing that lager is an important part of the story told and Pete Brown is never condescending towards lager drinkers. He even admits to being one himself. That doesn’t happen often in professional beer writing!

So, if you have an inkling of curiosity towards British pubs, or beer in England, you really want to read his book. You also might want to pledge a couple of bucks to his new book in which he will write in depth about the ingredients that make a beer a beer.

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Oban 12, decanter from the 1970s

Posted on 5 October 2015 by Sjoerd de Haan-Kramer

A bit of a divergent title since there’s not much info in there. Funny thing is, there’s not much info on the bottle either. No ABV, no contents. Just that it’s been bottled by John Hopkins & Sons. Based on the tax label info it’s from somewhere in the 1970s.

What I do know is that I like Oban, in general. There aren’t many out there I won’t say I’ve tried a lot of them, but even the regular 14 year old is a pretty decent dram. One of the better standard whiskies, I think.

I got a sample of this in a recent trade, and that’s a good thing. I finally get to try older Oban from one of those decanter bottles. I’ve been eyeballing those in auctions for a long time but there was always something else to go after. Now I get to check whether that was a good thing to do.

Sniff:
The nose is light, but has some of OBE (Old Bottle Effect) which makes you recognize it as an old bottle straight away. Quite coastal with a gentle layer of smoke. Some oak pulp, leather an old books. Like an old library with armchairs. Dusty grain, wet, moldy cellars and wet cement. Somehow there’s also a hint of yeasty sherry and sawdust. Quite cloyingly sweet with a lot of fruit. Overripe mango and papaya.

Sip:
The palate is more rich and full than I expected from such an old whisky. Sweet again with the overripe fruit. Leather, oak, old wood. Slightly salty an that wet cellar scent again. Dunnage warehouses and books.

Swallow:
The finish continues down the same path. A library from a couple of decades ago, with armchairs and a sea facing window that’s open. Quite old fashioned. Heavy and slightly cloying.

It’s quite interesting how much this whisky reminds me of the current Benromach 10 year old. Apart from that, it’s a great dram. There’s so much going on for a regular 12 year old. With booze like this I can imagine people considering older single malts (not in age, but when they were distilled) are better than their current counterparts.

I love that there’s a slight coastal note going on behind all the old books and leather notes. It makes for a very interesting and deeply layered dram. I absolutely love this kind of stuff and I can imagine it being in my next auction biddings. Whether or not it’s going to be in the winnings is an entirely different story, with current prices being north of € 200.

Oh, and based on ABV, I’d say this is a 43% whisky.

Oban 12, no further info but probably from the late 70s. Currently worth some € 250

EDIT: I’ve checked the tax label, and it’s one of those Italian ones. The contents of the bottle is ‘da litri 3/4’, and according to my own research with help from Max Righi we found that this wasn’t done after 1977. So, a real oldie with distillate of 1965 at the latest!

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Old Pulteney 2000-2014, 14yo, 61.1%, Hand bottled at the Distillery

Posted on 2 October 2015 by Sjoerd de Haan-Kramer

Somehow I don’t try many Old Pulteneys. That’s more strange since I generally really enjoy the taste and aroma it brings, with gentle briny notes covered in fruit and vanilla.

Deducing from that you might say I prefer the bourbon casks of Pulteney Distillery, and you’d be right. So, when I could get my hands on a sample of the Hand Bottled version from last year, I did so.

What’s surprising is that after 14 years in oak, the ABV is still above 60%, and this makes me guess they filled it slightly above the usual 63.5%. Especially in a wet climate like Wick’s I’d expect to have much more alcohol evaporation and the declining ABV that goes with it.

Or, it was just a really dense grained cask. Really dense.

Image from Whiskybase

Image from Whiskybase

Sniff:
I think I get a minor whiff of smoke from the start. There’s vanilla and yellow fruits, which I expected. Apple, pineapple. There’s a sugary sweetness going on and a trace of pastry cream. Apart from the smoke we’re still talking bakery here! Some lemony notes too.

Sip:
The palate is sharp and drying, and that’s not all that surprising. There’s hints of freshly sawed oak. White pepper and alcohol, vanilla. It’s quite sweet still with the hints of fruit and pastry cream being present here too.

Swallow:
The palate is warming and sharp. Again there’s vanilla and sweet bread. Brioche like. Some lemony notes again, but those are faint. Not overly long.

If I just regard the taste of the whisky, without any other factor measured in, I’d be thrilled with a dram like this. It shows the default Old Pulteney flavors and does so in a great and fierce way.

However, when I’d be bottling a distillery only version of a whisky, I always hope that it’s going to be a little extra special. Or maybe it’s more that if I try a distillery only whisky, I miss the experience of bottling it myself and the whisky has to do all the talking. In that situation, this one is good, but it just misses that little extra nudge to make it stand out a little more.

So, this is one of those cases that if it had been me at the distillery having to shell out some 70 quid for this bottling, I’d gladly do so. If I’d have to buy it elsewhere, I might have skipped it.

Then again. In the current climate in which a 15 year old cask strength costs € 100 and this single cask clocks in just below that. I’d still gladly buy it and be happy with it. How things have changed.

Old Pulteney 2000-2014, 14 years old, Bourbon Cask 649, Hand bottled at the distillery, 61.1%. Currently about € 95

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