Talisker Port Ruighe, 45.8%

The Talisker Port Ruighe (Portree) is named after the island’s capital town and to make the name a bit of a gimmick they also decided to finish the whisky in port casks. Apart from the town name and the ‘port’ pun it’s also a tribute to the famous port trading houses of Scotland from yonder year. Cockburn’s, Graham’s and many others had their roots in Scotland.

Portree

Portree

This expression came out in a year that Talisker also released the Storm and Dark Storm so it seems they are quickly making their way to NAS whiskies. I expect this is because Diageo is going to need more older stock soon to keep up with their 18 year old (and older) expression.

I tried the Talisker Storm at several occasions and while it’s a fairly unrefined dram, I kind of liked it since it showcases a very old fashioned, spirit driven whisky that doesn’t taste all that bad. The biggest drawback any Talisker expression has is that it’s always going to be compared to the regular 10 year old, since that’s one bloody great whisky, especially at that price. That also means that those NAS whiskies at increased pricing are going to struggle.

Talisker Distillery

Talisker Distillery

This one then. NAS, which probably means (guessing here) some 8 years old. This I find interesting, since within those eight years they also managed to squeeze in a finish. That then means the finish wasn’t overly long. It doesn’t necessarily have to be since, for example, the Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition is only finished for three months and that’s one noticeable finish!

Talisker Port Ruighe

Talisker Port Ruighe

Sniff:
It’s fairly closed at first with just some sweetness and a timid smoke coming out of the glass. After ten minutes or so it starts opening up and I get crunchy muesli with red fruits. In the Netherlands we have it with freeze-dried strawberries and raspberries and that’s what it reminds me of. Slightly spirity in a good way with some grass and a salty touch.

Sip:
The palate is light with the typical Talisker crushed black pepper notes. Some smoke and a white oak background (I didn’t see that coming). Red fruit again with ruby port (not tawny). It boils down to Talisker with a drop of port added.

Swallow:
The finish is very similar to the palate, but feels a bit more out of balance. It feels a bit like the port and Talisker whisky haven’t mingled all that well. Sweet, with fresh raspberries, some smoke and a hint of pepper.

I’m not overjoyed by this one. It takes too long for such a youngster to loosen up, and in the end it feels all a bit out of balance. It’s a bit like someone tried to mix Talisker with actual port and not just use a port cask.

The drawback here is, as expected, that it’s not better than the ten year old and since I can get that for € 26, and this for € 42.50 it a rather bad deal. If you’re going to buy any of the NAS ones, I’d go for the Storm, since that just is just Talisker on steroids. I haven’t tried the Dark Storm yet, though.

Anyway, a bit of a letdown, this. I had hoped for a bit more balance and integrated flavors.

Talisker Port Ruighe, NAS, 45.8%. Available in many places though prices vary wildly.

Posted in Talisker | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Kilchoman Port Cask matured, 3yo, 55%

Apparently, young Islay whiskies are ridiculously popular. As I said a short while ago I’m having trouble spending a wad of cash on Kilchoman, since it stings a little bit that I’m shelling out for a three year old. However, most of them are pretty good so when this one came out and I was already toying with a Peat & Port bottle share, it fit right in.

To my understanding the release of this bottle was only last week and it has already sold out everywhere, so it appears I am one of the few not readily spending a hundred bucks on a three year old whisky that might not be all that.

I’ve already spotted someone on Whiskybase trying to flip it and making a quick 40 euros, since it’s on the marketplace there. Luckily, I’m here to try it. To see how it ranks to yesterday’s Longrow (which I thought was pretty damn fine!).

Anyway, I saw a review recently that this was matured instead of finished in a port cask. That was heralded as some sort of boon for this whisky. However, since this baby is only three years old I’m willing to argue that most finishes last longer than this maturation has!

Kilchoman Port Cask Matured

Kilchoman Port Cask Matured

Sniff:
It’s a lot more peaty on the nose than the Longrow, but also very earthy. More towards damp soil and a peat bog than mushrooms and leaves though. There’s also old oak and dunnage warehouses. I’m having trouble getting the telltale fruitiness here. The more typical Kilchoman salinity and sharpness are present. After a couple of minutes some berries come through.

Sip:
The palate starts off with fizzy strawberry lemonade. I don’t think I’ve ever had that in a whisky! Then the alcohol comes rushing in to catch up. The peat is not as pronounced on the nose, but there is a lot of oak going on. The fruit cannot be held back and the strawberries are joined by red berries, and maybe some raspberry. As in, I get some fresh acidity. Quite syrupy, too.

Swallow:
The finish swings the other way. There’s a mountain of peat, lots of oak. Salt, some brine and sand, a lot more coastal than expected. After all that the fruits comes back a bit but nowhere near as on the palate. Pretty long, but rather simple.

What to think of this one? It’s pretty good, that’s for sure. I just don’t think it can trump the ‘pretty good’ level. It’s a tad inconsistent and the port and spirit don’t seem to have married all that well. It’s a bit wobbly between the nose, palate and finish. First only smoke, then lots of fruit, then back to the smoke again with almost no fruit.

It’s a very likeable whisky, but I’m glad I didn’t choose this one as the Kilchoman to start spending on. I prefer the Longrow, and with that I’m (sort of) keeping € 35 in my pocket. It’s just a bit too young I think, but I also wouldn’t be too thrilled to leave this for more years to see what happens then. Maybe a cleaner port cask? Cleaner, as in, rinsed better or so.

Kilchoman Port Cask Matured, 55%, 2011-2014, 3yo. Pretty hard to get by now, and the prices are climbing fast.

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Longrow Red 2014, Fresh Port Casks, 51.8%

As said in a previous post, I’m kind of enamoured with peated whisky from a port cask. Whether it’s a finish or a maturation doesn’t really matter to me, as long as the cask doesn’t fully overpower the whisky. How much like it depends on the quality of both the whisky and the casks of course.

In the case of Longrow I at least know that the quality of the whisky is taken care of. I love that stuff, unless they finish it in a Tokaji cask. They’re fairly consistent although they sometimes mislabel a Longrow as a Springbank (I think).

In this case they decided to put their newest Red release straight in my current area of interest. Their previous releases were from red wine casks and even though those usually raise my skepticism they were both pretty okay. Let’s see how this one fares!

I generally don’t comment on the color of a dram since it usually doesn’t mean anything, with the creative wood management that currently exists, but this one is definitely of a pink/orange hue.

Longrow Red, from Fresh Port Casks

Longrow Red, from Fresh Port Casks

Sniff:
Pretty heavy with some nuts, smoke and an earthy scent to it, like mushrooms, or wet leaves. Slightly salty with cigar smoke and a hint of red fruits behind that. More timid than I expected.

Sip:
The palate has two faces. There is a sharp, slightly salty side to it, with some barley and smoke. The other side has the warmth of the fruits, the dark oak and port like flavors. It blends rather well after a couple of seconds, but it seems the peppery bite is getting a tad overpowering.

Swallow:
The finish is definitely smoky with fresh wood smoke, but also some cigars. Some stewed red fruits (strawberries mostly), with oak, peat and that earthy flavor I also found on the nose.

While this might not be the most complicated of drams, it sure is a tasty one. I love the combination of fruit, smoke and warmth it gives, and I think Springbank has timed the release of this bottle well, since we’re heading for some colder months now.

The port is not overpowering at all, but does sure add flavor that otherwise isn’t found in Longrow. The salinity of the whisky with the crisp smoke is familiar, but the earthy flavor and scent is new, and I like it very much. This is a keeper! I might have to get myself a full bottle instead of just a wee sample…

Longrow Red 2014, Fresh Port Casks, 51.8%.

Pretty easy to get at the moment but I suggest trying a local specialty shop. Drinks & Gifts has it, so does De Whiskykoning. Master of Malt stocks it too, but the exchange rate for the Pound Sterling does you in, if you’re used to Euros. In The Netherlands it should be between € 60 and € 65, and it’s well worth it!

Posted in Longrow, Springbank | Tagged , , , , , | 3 Comments

Blind Tasting Competition 2014

It’s been a while since I posted a review, but I’ve been trying to work my way through a cold that my lovely daughter brought home from daycare. It’s going in the right direction so I hope to be back at more regular postings after the weekend.

This post is just to get your attention for our club’s annual Blind Tasting Competition. This year it’s running for the fourth time and it’s promising to be a good one with already 65 contestants.

The competition has been opened to non-members now and you only need an account on our website to participate (www.levenswater.nl) from December 6th to 23.

What is it:
You get 18 samples of whisky that can come from anywhere in Scotland, and are all single malts. Apart from that it can be any bottling that is on Whiskybase.

wpid-IMAG0998.jpg

Every day you taste one sample and fill in what you think is the right answer, and by scoring points on multiple categories you hope to end high on the list:

  • 40 points for the correct distillery, subtract 20 if you only get the region right
  • 40 points for the correct age, subtract 10 for each year you’re off (minimum of 0)
  • 20 points for the correct ABV, subtract 1 for each tenth of a percent you’re off.

I generally suck at this, but I’m hoping to do better than I did last year. Plus, technically the samples are cheap for what you’re getting!

So, go to www.levenswater.nl and sign up! There’s some 7 spots left!

Posted in - News and Announcements | Tagged , | 1 Comment

Port & Peat – A small bottle share

A couple of years ago in a whisky magazine, I can’t remember which one, I read an article about port casks being the new sherry casks.

The main reason behind this train of thought was that Port still pretty popular, where most sherry drinkers are (as our town’s former liquor shop owner put it) six feet under. I find this interesting and so far I’ve been able to find some really tasty port cask finishes and maturations.

The one thing that I have been missing from port cask matured whisky is diversity. This is possibly due to a lack of interest from the industry so far: Mostly Tawny Port casks are used but where’s the white port and vintage port? Where are the differences between casks from 10 years ago and casks from 100 years ago (since Port can mature ridiculously long).

In the past I did find one thing particularly appealing, and that is the combination of Port matured/finished whisky and peat. For me the whiskies that were made with peated barley before being put in a port cask have been miles ahead of the non-peated ones.

This little bottle-share is therefore not to prove myself wrong, but just to enjoy some really good (hopefully) peated whiskies that were matured or finished in port pipes.

I expect to start writing notes somewhere next week when my cold is hopefully over. Also, the bottle share is already full so no point in wanting to be in this time.

The line-up:

  • Longrow Red 11yo – Fresh Port Casks
  • Kilchoman 3yo – Port Cask Matured
  • BenRiach Solstice 17yo – 2nd edition
  • Talisker – Port Ruighe

EDIT: Apparently there is a White Port matured Ben Nevis, but that’s not a very peaty whisky. But it does exist, and is available from Master of Malt

Posted in BenRiach, Kilchoman, Longrow, Talisker | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

The Diageo Special Releases

My post is a bit late to the party, but I didn’t get around to it yesterday.

In the mysterious of Diageo the list of Special Releases was announced yesterday, but not through their PR company (Cognis PR) or their ‘dedicated’ Twitter account (@SpecialReleases). For some reason, blogs were the ones getting the news out this year.

The list of special releases, including their Recommended Retail Price in pounds is below.

DISTILLERY
AGE AT BOTTLING
YEAR DISTILLED
UK RRP
%
# OF BOTTLES
SINGLETON OF GLENDULLAN 
38
1975
£750
59.8%
3,756
CAOL ILA UNPEATED
15
1998
£75
60.39%
10,668
CAOL ILA
30
1983
£425
55.1%
7,638
CLYNELISH
SELECT RESERVE
1999* (youngest whisky in vatting)
£500
54.9%
2,964
CRAGGANMORE 
25
1988
£299
51.4%
3,372
LAGAVULIN
12
2002
£80
54.4%
31,428
PORT ELLEN
35
1978
£2,200
56.5%
2,964
ROSEBANK
21
1992
£300
55.3%
4,530
BENRINNES
21
1992
£240
56.9%
2,892
BRORA
35
1978
£1,200
48.6%
2,964
STRATHMILL
25
1988
£275
52.4%
2,700

(Table comes from Neil and Joel at Caskstrength Whisky Blog)

Of course, the discussion has been about Diageo’s pricing which automatically makes these whisky unreachable for all except the wealthiest of us, or those who saved up enough money over the last year for that one special bottle.

I have to say that compared to the last couple of years, I have the feeling the prices haven’t soared that much higher. And, whether the Port Ellen costs £ 1200 or £ 2200, the likeliness of me buying one is there in none of those two situations.

I am interested in the 12 year old Lagavulin, as I am every year and this year I just might have enough budget to get it when it gets there. Usually I forget about these releases, spend all my money and then have to start saving again when they popup, only to find they’ve all been sold by the next month.

Anyway, I let you form your own opinion on these bottles. I’m sure all of them sell eventually, with the Port Ellen and Brora being gone in minutes after release. It’s a strange world we live in.

They look gorgeous, though!

They look gorgeous, though!

Posted in - News and Announcements, Benrinnes, Brora, Caol Ila, Clynelish, Cragganmore, Glendullan, Lagavulin, Port Ellen, Rosebank, Strathmill | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

The General, 53.4% – Compass Box

Compass Box is a highly regarded whisky ‘releaser’. They release all kinds of whiskies that they generally blend in their London offices. I don’t call them a blender in the regular sense of the word since I think they’re more than that.

What they do is so much more crafty than releasing the next 20.000.000 bottles of Johnnie Walker Red Label that there is just no comparing them. Their releases are blends, blended malts, blended grains and I bet there have been some single malts over the years too.

A while ago I reviewed some whiskies from their core range, the Peat Monster, Oak Cross, Spice Tree, long before that I’ve reviewed some random releases of them too. I finished my bottle of Great King Street blended whisky and wouldn’t be surprised if I bought one again since it’s great, and very affordable.

In 2013, for me it came out of the blue, they released The General. A blended whisky that has a rather epic label and came in a fancy plastic museum like showcase. It scared me a little bit since upon release it already cost you £ 200 or so.

It sold out quickly and then the reviews started coming in. It turned out I should have bought it, according to the world. Luckily I could still participate in a bottle share of it so at least I get to try it.

The blend is unique since it’s not blended before bottling or blended young, but both. It consists of two parcels of blended whiskies that have been in oak for many years AFTER blending, and those two parcels were blended just before bottling. Funny, that.

Sniff:
On the nose it’s ridiculously rich with all the old fashioned scents that one could associate with whisky. There’s leather and pipe tobacco, arm chairs, oak, a hint of smoke and fruit. Spices too, of course. I get banana, nutmeg and clove. Dried apple, spiced cake, sherry, chocolate and cappuccino.

Sip:
The palate is sharp and dry. Fruity again but more citrusy. Some orange and pomelo, lemon too. The spices are present, mostly baking spices and it packs a punch. It gets a bit thicker after a couple of seconds when you get your tongue around the alcohol. Peach syrup, oak, some vanilla. Leather and furniture polish. Very warming, very gentle although it’s pretty sharp.

Swallow:
The finish just screams ‘classic’. It’s very old fashioned, again with leather and all those flavors. It’s long with slightly more sherry shining through than before. The boozy fruit cake is back in full swing too. Candied fruits, maraschino cherries, rummy even.

I’m not one to quickly save money for expensive bottles like this, but in this case I wish I was slightly more so. This is a very, very good whisky that absolutely ticks all the boxes. It’s a bit more wintry than I am used to in blended whiskies, but that’s only adding to the perception of it.

The flavors are well married, it’s not a jumble of random senses being trigger, which is my main problem with blends. This one works. And it works well. The sherry is never overpowering and the strength of oak and all other flavors really shines. Damn…

I wish I had a bottle of this.

The General, 53.4%, Compass Box. Apparently it’s still available from obscure shops in France and Switzerland, but it’ll set you back some € 300

Posted in - Blended Whisky, Compass Box | Tagged , , , | 5 Comments

Laphroaig 1995, 17yo, 61.5%, Nurses and Doctors attend a Beach BBQ – SMWS (29.134)

Another wee drop of SMWS booze. Let’s hope this one is more to my liking than yesterday’s Highland Park.

Laphroaig is a bit of a strange whisky. There’s quite a lot of independent bottlings out there, as well as an increasing number of official ones. For some reason, I’ve spent quite some money on the brand, buying some of their Friends of Laphroaig bottlings in the Cairdeas series. I’ve stopped doing that a couple years ago, but I did end up buying (I think) batch 2 of their cask strength releases.

I love that dram, although I’ve kind of fallen out of love with their Cairdeas stuff. Mostly it consists of young peated whisky, which you can get from almost every distillery by now. While the booze is then of high enough quality, it hasn’t had the time to properly grow into it’s own, I think. Which means it all kind of feels a bit generic. Young and peaty. Maybe the 12 year old Cairdeas one from some years ago is better, but I haven’t tried it yet. I know the port cask from last year was far from nice. LaphRose

Islay Distillery. Image from http://www.islay.org.uk/, by Arwin Grewe

Islay Distillery. Image from http://www.islay.org.uk/, by Armin Grewe

This cask is what, in my opinion, Laphroaig does best. Get a great bourbon barrel, put great spirit in there and take some time before bottling it. Not too long, mind! 17 years seems about right.

Sniff:
A typical Laphroaig punch in the face. No messing about. Peat, straw, heather. It’s clean, it’s fierce, there’s salt and sand and I also get some lemon curd. Laphroaig often has lemon flavors that are just lovely. It gets a bit sweeter after about fifteen minutes, with more oak, brown sugar, vanilla syrup and treacle.

Sip:
The palate is dry at first, just before the strength hits you. This one is hot! It doesn’t have much alcohol in a flavor-wise way though. Straw, heather, crushed black pepper. Some vanilla and the peat is not that overpowering. It’s definitely there but in balance with the other flavors. After a bit of swimming I get apple cake, treacle and thyme.

Swallow:
The finish mellows quickly and leaves a lovely warming glow. Lots of herbal flavors like the thyme from before. Slightly salty and sweet at the same time. Sugar, and even some coffee like bitterness.

This is a very Laphroaigy whisky. Which is enough reason to want a bottle of it, and I wish I had spotted this earlier since 68 quid for this kind of booze is a steal. Of course, it’s all gone by now.

The flavors are well balanced but still develop over tasting this whisky. The nose is different from the palate, and the direction it’s taken is continued in the finish. This is something I thoroughly enjoy. I very much like the addition of the thyme on the palate and the coffee flavor in the finish.

I think I could ramble on about this bottle for a while, but let’s keep it short. Epic stuff. I want more whisky like this. Absolutely fantastic.

But, as I’ve come to expect from the SMWS, an utterly bullcrap name and tasting notes that I can’t do anything with. Still, they know how to pick some great casks!

Laphroaig 1995, 17yo, 61.5%, Nurses and Doctors attend a Beach BBQ, SMWS (29.134). It used to be only £ 68.

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Highland Park 1999, 11yo, 56.6%, Sherbet Fountains and Rainbow Drops – SMWS (4.158)

Due to quite a lot of sample buying and sharing from and with whisky buddies in England, I’ve gotten my hand on some SMWS samples. Apparently the SMWS there is loads more fun than it is in The Netherlands. Bummer for us, but luckily we are not without options.

This Highland Park bottling was bought in a small share of this and a bottle of Laphroaig. I participated in it, even though the bottlings were not that appealing. As in, they were random, young and there was not anything truly ‘special’ about them. I have known some Highland Parks and Laphroaigs from the SMWS that did turn out to be rather stellar drams.

Of course, results from the past are no guarantee, but these weren’t too expensive so let’s just give it a go, right?

Highland Park Distillery

Highland Park Distillery

Sniff:
It smells a lot younger than it actually is. And it smells like there’s a lot more alcohol than there actually is. There’s a lot of apple juice like scents, but also a trace of smoke, some pear and American oak. The vanilla is there too, but in the background.

Sip:
The palate is very sharp too with loads of alcohol again. Quite some bite! It’s hot even. There’s oak, charcoal and smoke, with hints of sponge cake, buttermilk and some orange. Not very dry, which I expected with this intensity.

Swallow:
The finish is rather typical of Highland Park from bourbon casks. Again, very sharp but mellows down quite quickly. A trace of smoke again with apples, unripe pear, vanilla and some lemon.

Right. I am not sure what to think of this one. It’s not, in itself, a bad whisky, but it’s not very appealing either. I think I find the whisky rather off balance. The idea is great with not too old bourbon matured Highland Park having the possibility to be really great, but this is not it.

The apple juice scents on the nose and the massive alcohol that’s all over this dram is just not it for me. I’m actually glad I only got a sample of this. On the other hand, I did finish the sample right away. A bit of water does mellow it a bit, but also starts drowning it right off the bat.

Compared to some other youngish Highland Parks from bourbon casks, this is just not a very good one.

Highland Park 1999, 11yo, 56.6%, Sherbet Fountains and Rainbow Drops, SMWS (4.158). Used to cost some £ 50 to 60 I think.

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Millstone Ménage a Trois, 46% – Zuidam Distillers

I had to check with my wife before making this statement, but it seems like Zuidam’s Ménage a Trois is the only threesome I’m ever going to get.

Apart from all lowbrow jokes on a ‘Ron de Jeremy’ level aside, let’s talk about the booze. Of course, Zuidam, Dutch distiller, some great whisky, great jenever, great liqueurs, etc. etc. etc.

This whisky is called Ménage a Trois because it’s made up of three different grains. They’ve used 33% malted barley, 33% corn and 33% rye. Those in the know might recognize this as the exact same recipe they use for their old jenevers.

Of course, Zuidam wouldn’t be Zuidam if they didn’t experiment with it and since they mash and distill it anyway, what’s to keep them from stashing some in barrels before adding herbs, spices and fruits to mature and call whisky? Nothing apparently and I’m actually rather surprised they didn’t do this earlier.

Apart from this three grain baby they’ve also just released a five grain whisky, but I’m not entirely sure what’s in it. I imagine spelt and wheat. I know Patrick van Zuidam is not a fan of using rice since that doesn’t add much to the flavour of the whisky. I’ve sent him a message on Facebook and will update this bit when he answers.

EDIT: Spelt and wheat it is. Patrick just confirmed this to me. The five grain whisky has been bottled but is still in storage to settle a bit.

The Ménage a Trois is matured for five years in American Oak, I imagine it being a refill cask previously containing bourbon, but virgin oak wouldn’t surprise me either. The internet is not exactly forthcoming with information on this one, so again, I’ll update as soon as Patrick answers!

EDIT 2: The three grain is matured in virgin oak. In hindsight, refill would’ve been much gentler to the spirit.

Millstone Ménage a Trois

Millstone Ménage a Trois

Sniff:
On the nose you directly notice the dram’s youth. Only five years in a barrel have not ironed out all the creases, but this is not a bad thing. It’s quite jenever like and has lots of grainy scents. Because of the combination it’s hard to pinpoint which grains (based on scent, of course, the label says it all). It’s not too woody but you notice the oak. It has hints of ginger and a vodka like scent of alcohol. If you inhale deeply you will notice the spirit’s fairly raw and untamed.

Sip:
The palate is somewhat sharper than I expected, but that’s the youth of the booze for you. It’s slightly more fruity too with apple and pear. Hints of white pepper, new cut oak and a treacle like sweetness.

Swallow:
The finish is a bit more fruity again with lychee and lychee peel being added to the apple and pear that was already there. There’s pepper again too, but in a very gentle, timid way. Not too long.

It’s a bit of an odd duck. While the descriptions of a young, untamed spirit might scare off lots of single malt lovers, I rather like this whisky. It’s something else from what I’m familiar with, but the flavours are all there. You have to be able to work with the youth of the whisky and I know that’s not for everyone, but I enjoyed this. Quite a bit even.

The fruity flavours that I didn’t notice on the nose work well on the palate to balance out the rawness of the spirit. Luckily, there’s some spirit flavours remaining so you can actually taste the distillate and not just the oak influence. Lovely stuff, but quite different and it might be too much out of a lot of people’s comfort zone.

Which might just be what the distillery is aiming for!

Millstone Ménage a Trois, 46%, Zuidam Distillers. Available in the better Dutch whisky shops for around € 37.50 per bottle. I know Drinks & Gifts in town here has 10cl samples

Posted in - Grain Whisky, - World Whisky, Zuidam | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments