Maltstock – Whiskyquiz with Michael Lord

One of the Masterclasses described in the earlier post was done my Michael Lord from The Whisky Shop Dufftown. He also does the annual whisky quiz at Maltstock so people are always happy and afraid when he says he’s coming again.

The Whisky Quiz had already been handled on Friday evening with some staple and some new rounds. The ‘What did I photoshop in this picture’ round was quite ridiculous again. There were ridiculous changes with duplicated cars in the parking lot, light posts at places where they shouldn’t be and things like that. Some were more whisky related with chimneys moved, duplicated or erased, but also complete kilns copied to the wrong building.

A small trivia round, especially compared to last year, had a few questions about whisky geekery on the level I might be of help, with all kinds of exact knowledge. Others were more based on distillery visits, name the manager and this kind of stuff. I’m not of any help there because I just don’t know the names.

The whisky jeopardy round was for the real geeks (guilty as charged) and when the answer ‘6.500.000’ pops up I’m not sure I should be proud of knowing that that is the annual capactiy of Caol Ila.

At least I’m glad there was no Malt Whisky Yearbook round this time. That was even more ridiculous last year (‘What is the last distillery in the book?’) and since only one group had the book with them, they easily won.

Our team didn’t win, but we did come second which means there was a prize for us too. We won a voucher to partake in an extra masterclass by Hans Offringa (or, according to The WhiskySponge, ‘Hans Chewbacca Cockringa’) with all kinds of bourbon thingies. More on that soon!

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Maltstock – Highland Park Masterclass

This year’s Masterclasses at Maltstock was a random selection of whisky brands displaying their wares. I didn’t really know which ones to pick so I started at the other end. Which ones do I not want to go to. It turned out that this part of the list would consist of brands I had seen last year (sorry The Whisky Exchange, Master of Malt and Balvenie) and a brand that I normally don’t care about (sorry The Glenrothes).

That left six to choose from. If I remember correctly those were Highland Park, Whisky Shop Dufftown, Cadenhead’s, Tamdhu, Amrut and Suntory. I was assigned the first three of this wee list.

Highland Park has been a bit more prominently doing tastings and such since Sietse Offringa (the son of Hans Offringa, therefore refered to as Offspringa by some) became brand ambassador. I know the guy a little bit and usually what he does is quite nice, so a nice pick.

The brand released a bunch of travel retail exclusives in the Viking Warrior range, one of the many ranges of bottlings they do nowadays. This seems to be popular since they just finished the Magnus range before following that with the Valhalla series. They vintage travel retail bottlings have already made place with the viking warriors. I’m not sure what to think of all these bottlings, but at least there’s bound to be some tasty whisky, right?

Mark Marvardsen already checking his watch.

Mark Marvardsen already checking whether or not he can go away and drink.

We started the tasting by trying Highland Park’s new make spirit. While interesting, I never like new spirit of any distillery as a drink on its own. It’s the same here. Pretty heavy stuff with leather, over ripe fruit and some sulphury vegetables.

Then came the Ambassador’s Choice I think. I tried to write everything down but the tasting was very chaotic and fast at this point. The hosts were also busy telling us loads of stuff about Orkney and the vikings. Not so much about the whisky. Anyway, there’s wood, pine and some resin on the nose. The palate is gentle, rich and syrupy with a touch of pepper. The finish is rather long, but a bit generic.

Highland Park Svein

Highland Park Svein

The first of the viking series was Svein. There was a long story about him and his kind. The whisky smells like bread and pineapple, some peat, tar but quite closed. A touch of coffee eventually. Regarding the palate and finish I only wrote down ‘not much happening’. A  rather uninteresting whisky.

After Svein came Einar. The nose of this dram has more smoke and wood, some vanilla and coffee too. The palate is a bit thin with smoke, pepper, coffee and some bitter herbs. The finish is rather spicy with some wood. More interesting than Svein, but not something I put on my wishlist.

 

Highland Park Harald

Highland Park Harald

Harald was the third and last viking. Harald was an entirely different kind of viking. More the type that made sure his men and family were safe. Hence the shield on the label. A new release with a lot more sherry casks used in the blend. Rather fruity on the nose, with dried fruits, sherry, plums and dates. The palate was pretty sweet with oak and creamy dates. The finish was long, gentle and fruity. Much nicer, but I believe also by far the most expensive one of the batch so far.

The next whisky was a Cask Strength Highland Park. Without CS bottlings being in a series, you don’t come across these often. I believe this is a bottling for Sweden at 56%. Even more sherry on the nose and a rather typical Highland Park scent (which is a good thing). Lots and lots of dried plums and dates. The palate is punchy and hot with fruit and allspice. The finish had more of a bitter, spicy character.

The last dram is a single cask bottling for The Netherlands at 58%. Not sure if this is still to be released, because I haven’t heard anything about it yet. Brown sugar, fruit and allspice on the nose, with PX sherry, oak and a touch of peat. The palate is dry with sherry, spices and oak. The finish is massive on the sherry.

Usually I’m more of a bourbon cask guy, but in this case the sherried ones were the nicest of the tasting. The tasting itself, to my liking, was a bit too focussed on the warriors and their way of life. Some folklore is nice during a tasting but I would have loved to have a bit more time to actually get information on the whisky. Especially the beginning was chaotic what made me unable to even write down what I actually was tasting. Still, nice enough!

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Let me tell you about whisky – Neil Ridley & Gavin D. Smith

It’s been a while but I decided to read a whisky book again. This one is a recent release from Gavin D. Smith, a famous whisky writer with quite some credits. The other writer, Neil Ridley, started out as co-founder of the Cask Strength Whisky Blog and has since moved up in the industry by writing for a variety of publications, WhiskyMag among others.

The book has a variety of USPs on the back cover. Two of which are:

  • The best whisky primer on the market
  • No jargon. No snobbery. No previous knowledge assumed

I didn’t know this at the time of purchase since this indicates a book directed at people with no previous knowledge on the subject. Keeping this in mind I started reading it.

The book is divided into a couple of main chapters. Whisky making, it’s flavours, how to enjoy it and distilleries and tasting notes.

The whisky making chapter is quite well written with no obvious mistakes. It keeps things nice and simple but nonetheless does it disclose quite a lot of information. Strangely though, the ‘no jargon’ bit does make it all a bit vague. In my opinion it works better if jargon is explained and then used.

The flavours of whisky is an entry course in which flavours you can find in whisky. It’s a fairly short chapter since they don’t give many examples of which flavours are found where. They keep the tasting notes for chapter 4.

How to enjoy whisky starts a bit strange. I am always quite surprised how whisky writers get to write an entire chapter on how to do this, while their opinion always is ‘each their own’ and ‘there is no right way to do it’. The part on whisky and food pairing, how to do a tasting and some cocktails is really nice though. As the rest of the book it’s a bit basic, but that’s the general idea.

The chapter with distilleries featured and tasting notes I have to admit I just leafed through. I only read the descriptions of distilleries I have barely any knowledge of or to see what they wrote when it came to Zuidam in The Netherlands. This means I mostly read the chapters on American craft distilleries since I am quite curious to those.

Having said this, it is a very well written and edited book. The information in it is concise and accurate. The descriptions of processes are well done albeit a bit simplistic. The tasting notes are accurate and the information on distilleries is very nice.

It is, however, aimed at novices. It is in this case more so than with many other books that do not propagate it. The way everything is described and the way the chapters are divided I had the idea of reading an entry level World Atlas of Whisky

So, concluding. It’s a nice, well written book. The images of both environments, distilleries, people and bottles are incredibly well done. Just keep in mind that if you’ve read a few whisky books before or have been to a number of distilleries, there might not be anything new here.

Available from Master of Malt at £ 16.99 in hard cover.

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Clynelish 17, 58%, bottled for the Broracademy – Cadenhead

Of this bottle there are two versions. One is bottled by Cadenhead in their wood series range. The other were just a few dozen bottled for the exclusive Broracademy. The Broracademy was a massive Brora tasting, inside the remnants of the old distillery, if I’m not mistaken.

I got a sample of it from Jon Beach. He had been rubbing it in that whatever we whisky geeks were up to, he was at the Broracademy so it could never be topped. While that is true, I don’t want that in my face all the time. I think he owed it a bit to give me the slightest experience of the event…

Well. He actually didn’t owe me anything since he welcomed me into his whisky room for a kick ass semi-blind tasting. He promised a report on that from his point of view and I’m waiting for that before posting my own reviews.

Sniff:
Clynelish from halfway through the nineties often has a very austere, heavy mineral character and this one is no exception. I get basalt or slate with iron and grain dust. It is very punchy but mellows a little bit after some air. The typical Clynelish waxy notes show up then too!

Clynelish 17 by Cadenhead's. Image from Whiskybase

Clynelish 17 by Cadenhead’s. Image from Whiskybase

Sip:
It’s rich and waxy with a touch of vanilla. Pretty sharp but with a syrupy mouth feel. Some oak, salt and a touch of smoke.

Swallow:
A surprise of some fruit, pear in this case. More bees wax with honey. Very gentle with a noticable amount of oak.

I drew a little graph in my notebook with one increasing line on the waxiness, and the inverse (decreasing, that would be) on the minerals.

It’s a lovely Clynelish, but I wouldn’t have guessed it was sherried. Some characteristics can be attributed to that, but those are minor flavour components. Could have been any cask, but it sure is a lovely Clynelish. Not the best ever. Not even the best from the second half of the nineties, but a lovely Clynelish nonetheless.

Clynelish 17, 58%, bottled for the Broracademy, Cadenhead. The Cadenhead bottling costs around € 82.50 at Whiskybase.

Thanks to Jon Beach for the sample! You should all go and visit Fiddler’s.

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Diageo’s Premium releases for 2013

Through the magic that happens at Facebook I saw a post from CognisNews on my timeline. Never heard of them, but they had the scoop on Diageo’s releases for 2013. Thanks should also go to WhiskyIntelligence.com.

Here is a short version. I ripped out the tasting notes since most people don’t really care about that marketing bit. I’ll write some opinion on this all after Maltstock. I’m kind of preoccupied right now:

Diageo has announced the ten Single Malt Whiskies that form its annual limited-edition Special Releases for 2013.

In the words of Nik Keane, global director for malt whiskies at Diageo, they represent “some of the most sought after, valuable and collectible Single Malt Scotch Whiskies in the world”.

The oldest in the collection is a Lagavulin™ at 37 years old and distilled in 1976 – the oldest expression of Lagavulin ever released by the distillers, in a dramatically limited edition of fewer than 2,000 bottles. It is flanked by a lively 12 year old Lagavulin.

Georgie Crawford, distillery manager at Lagavulin, said: “Lagavulin is probably the most sought-after single malt whisky in production today  –  universally acknowledged as one of the unchallenged grands crus of Scotch Whisky. For many years we have been unable to supply sufficient mature spirit to meet worldwide demand. So bottlings of old Lagavulin are exceptionally rare, and this year’s 37 year old is the oldest that we have ever released. Its 12 year old younger brother makes a regular appearance in the Special Releases, and has always been received with huge enthusiasm.”

Further North, from the Isle of Skye, 3,000 individually numbered bottles of a classic and sophisticated Talisker™ distilled in 1985 are destined to be much in demand from adorers of this legendary single malt.

Three grown-up whiskies make the case for Speyside.  An unusually mature example ofCardhu™, presented at 21 years old in fewer than 6,000 individually numbered bottles, will suggest an interesting comparison with the 22 year old Cardhu own bottling released in 2005. The 28 year old bottling of The Singleton of Dufftown™ is the first limited cask strength edition of The Singleton in this series with just 3,840 individually numbered bottles. And bottled at 36 years old, the very rare Convalmore™ – from the Dufftown distillery that ceased production in 1985 – makes a welcome reappearance, carrying  a few more years since its last much-acclaimed showing in the Special Releases back in 2005, this time in a smaller edition of only 3,000 bottles.

For lovers of West Coast Single Malt Whiskies, Oban™ is represented by a 21 year old from rejuvenated American Oak and a second fill in ex-Bodega casks. Another complex maturation regime lies behind the 8th unpeated limited edition of Caol Ila™ which this year proudly carries the subtitle “Stitchell Reserve” in honour of the long-serving distillery manager Billy Stitchell, due to retire this year.  “Refill American Oak, rejuvenated American Oak and ex-bodega European Oak have all played a role in creating this special Caol Ila,” explains Billy. “It has a firm, clean and fresh style, finishing with aromatic, spicy and drying notes.”

Ultra-rare bottlings from another two long-closed distilleries complete the line-up in this year’s releases. A 34 year old Port Ellen™, the 13th and oldest release from the original distillers, comes in an edition of fewer than 3,000 individually numbered bottles, as does the equally desirable Highland East Coast 35 year old Brora™, from casks filled in 1977. Both bottlings are destined to excite collectors and connoisseurs.

Nick Morgan, Diageo’s head of whisky outreach,  commented: “Stocks of Brora and Port Ellenare inexorably diminishing. Each year’s limited-edition bottling releases one more fragment of whisky history that is unique, and can’t ever be replaced. This puts Port Ellen and Brora in a different category from most other very old single malts  –  mainly from operating distilleries  –  that  are on the market, often at very high  prices. On top of that, Port Ellen and Brora are not merely rare, old and in great demand – they are judged by most qualified commentators to be of outstanding quality, and this year’s edition will be no exception.

“Indeed, many would accept that Port Ellen and Brora are among the world’s rarest Single Malt Whiskies still being released.”
Caol Ila Stitchell ReserveCardhu 21Convalmore 36Lagavulin 12Lagavulin 37Oban 21Port Ellen 34The Singleton of Dufftown 28Talisker 1985

DISTILLERY AGE AT BOTTLING YEAR DISTILLED UK RRSP % ABV ON BOTTLING VOLUME RELEASED (BOTTLES)
Brora 35 1977 £750 49.9 2,944
Caol Ila Not declared Not stated £70 59.6 Limited number
Cardhu 21 1991 £160 54.2 6,000
Convalmore 36 1977 £600 58.0 2,980
Lagavulin 12 not stated £80 55.1 Limited number
Lagavulin 37 1976 £1,950 51.0 1,868
Oban 21 not stated £225 58.5 2,860
Port Ellen 34 1978 £1,500 55.0 2,958
The Singleton of Dufftown 28 1985 £235 52.3 3,816
Talisker 27 1985 £475 56.1 3,000

End of the press release.

So far, most of it is out of my league, but I sure would like to taste all of them!

Posted in Brora, Caol Ila, Cardhu, Convalmore, Lagavulin, Oban, Port Ellen, Talisker | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Glen Scotia 19, 1992-2011, 51.8% – Kintra Whisky

I feel like a total ass for not doing this review earlier. Back in, I guess, late 2011 or early 2012 Erik Molenaar of Kintra Whisky was kind enough to send me a couple of samples to review. I thought I had done them all until I found this one sitting in the back of my cupboard. So, I’m incredibly sorry, Erik, but here it goes!

Kintra Whisky is one of the few Dutch bottlers around. There are a few but nowhere near as many as in Belgium or Germany (or the UK, obviously). I also feel like Kintra is the most like those international retailers. The bottlings are somewhat more luxurious than, for example, The Ultimate who focuses more on budget. First Cask by WIN for some reason feels more like a private bottler since I’ve almost never seen their bottles out in the open.

It’s easy to figure out that Erik shares his casks with some other bottler(s) since there usually are about 60 to 100 bottles to go around. In this case there are slightly more, 119 in total. Keeping in mind that this comes from a sherry butt, it’s fairly easy to do the calculation that bottles are somewhere else too.

Glen Scotia 19 by Kintra Whisky. Image from Whiskybase

Glen Scotia 19 by Kintra Whisky. Image from Whiskybase

Sniff:
The sherry is clear from the start, even if you disregard the dark brown colour. There also wood and lots of red fruits. I love this already! Heavy tones of leather, wood and a kind of moldy barley. Sherry with spices, balsamic vinegar and strawberries.

Sip:
On the palate the spices are definetly back. It takes a while to open up further though. A tad dry and slightly sharp. There’s a light touch of fruit juice with strawberry again. The spices and balsamic vinegar are more or less gone here.

Swallow:
The finish goes back to the feints again with engine oil and a hint of peat. I didn’t notice the peat earlier. Fruity and sherry-y with oak. Not as heavy as I expected.

This is a delicious whisky and a terrific pick by Erik Molenaar. Especially the nose is gorgeous and, even though the palate is a bit closed, it’s very tasty. Unfortunately I only reviewed this now because it long since sold out. I might have to look at the smaller shops if I want to find a bottle of this.

Glen Scotia 19, 1992-2011, 51.8%, Kintra Whisky. About € 100.

Thanks to Erik for the sample!

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Highland Park Thor, 16yo, 2012, 52.1%

In Holland there’s a saying that translates to “eggs after easter”. It applies to, as you might expect, someone who brought the goods, but shows up too late. It feels a bit the same with this review. Highland Park Thor is a dram that showed up on every blog out there, but most of them did so right after it came out instead of a year and a half later.

Anyway, I got this sample a while ago and it was my first chance to sit down and assess it properly. Before that I had a nip or two, but not in a setting in which one writes notes.

Thor is the first in the Valhalla collection, a set of four Highland Park whiskies named after Norse gods. The Loki (released in early 2013) is the second and I guess the next one comes out in about half a year. Probably Freya or Odin or something like that.

It’s a whisky matured in bourbon casks that used to set you back some € 150. It’s value has gone up a bit since and it now sits at € 200. Not a tremendous increase, compared to the rise of the earlier Magnus collection from Highland Park.

Highland Park Thor. Image from Whiskybase.

Highland Park Thor. Image from Whiskybase.

Sniff:
Clearly American oak. There’s lemon peels, biscuits with a slight tinge of smoke. It’s a bit creamy as well, milky even.

Sip:
There’s a definite build-up of impact with black pepper and oak. It’s pretty sweet and sugary and eventually even pretty gentle. Again that creaminess with lemon. I’m starting to think of yoghurt drinks.

Swallow:
The finish feels a bit young, although it’s 16 years old. Spirity, but I like that. It doesn’t add much new flavours but lasts pretty long.

I’m not sure how the rest of the world reviewed this but I’m going with ‘nice, but too simple’. If I just review the whisky I’m a bit on the positive side since the flavours that are present are flavours I like. When I take the price in account I’m going for ‘it doesn’t warrant the price tag’. By that I mean that it’s a nice whisky but at € 150 it’s just too expensive. Nice bottle though!

Highland Park Thor, 16yo, 2012, 52.1%, € 200 by now.

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Springbank 14, 1995-2010, Fresh Sherry Pipe, 57.1% – Springbank Society

The Springbank Society is a club of members of Springbank that get offered special bottles every once in a while. As a bonus you get a discount when you tour the distillery and an invite to the Open Day and Golf competition that goes with it. I became a member a few years ago and have picked up some really nice bottles along the way.

This one is a peculiar one, as the attentive reading probably has noticed by the title, a sherry pipe is not something you come across often. Technically, a pipe is a tall, narrow cask used to mature port. Sherry normally comes from butts.

Springbank 14 from a fresh Sherry Pipe

Springbank 14 from a fresh Sherry Pipe

I’m not sure how they got a strange cask like this, but there might be the option of asking from something custom from a cooper, or they’ve just been doing strange stuff somewhere in Jerez, Spain.

Sniff:
It’s rather sharp with lots of barley and grist scents. Also quite some grilled fruit like pineapple, peach and apple. I think I get a slight trace of peat smoke and kerosine in the background.

Sip:
The palate is sharp too with the same fruitiness as on the nose. It’s sweeter than I expected with a slight saltiness. The trace of peat seems to be back, but this time I’m not so sure about it. Apple, peach and tinned pineapple.

A close up of the label

A close up of the label

Swallow:
Sweet and quite a bit smoother with the fruitiness and something I think I have to call ‘Springbankness’. By that I mean that there’s fruit, salt, oak and barley. A rather well done combination of it all. I also get a bit of straw.

This is quite a lovely dram. My wife insisted I picked it up when we were at the distillery in 2010, and who am I to disagree? Especially when it comes to nice stuff like this. Usually these society bottles are not too expensive, which makes for a bonus.

I’m glad I picked up two of these for it’s a truely delicious whisky. Not too complex but not overly simple either. There’s a wee drop left in the bottle for me to finish tonight, so I’m already looking forward to that!

Springbank 14, 1995-2010, Fresh Sherry Pipe, 57.1%, Springbank Society. About € 100 now.

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Ben Nevis 21, 46%, 1990-2012 – The Maltman

I feel like I’ve tortured Frank (formerly from the MeWhisky blog) by not reviewing this earlier. He sent me this somewhere in (I think) February and I let him know right away that it was a damn fine whisky. Then for the review. ‘Soon, soon!’ I told him.

But it wasn’t soon. It wasn’t soon at all. It took so long that the desperation caused him to close down his blog even! Well. No. That wasn’t it, but I just want to tease him a bit.

The Maltman is a division of Meadowside Blending, based in Glasgow. I met the younger guy of the team last year in Alkmaar, during the Hielander whisky festival. He let me taste quite some nice whiskies during the 45 minute chat we had. Check this post for more info.

Ben Nevis. The not so pretty distillery from Fort William. I’ve been to Fort William, while planning to visit the distillery too, but the ridiculously boring Jacobite train ride got in the way. I’ve seen the distillery again last year, but with the little one and hours of driving before us decided not to stop there. One day I will! Unless Glenfiddich sues me for copyright stuff…

Ben Nevis 21 by The Maltman. Image from Whiskybase

Ben Nevis 21 by The Maltman. Image from Whiskybase

Sniff:
It’s pretty heavy with old barley, white oak made into not-too-active casks. I guess this was a refill, but with 21 year in wood, who cares! There’s something grassy in the background.

Sip:
It’s full, rich and sweet. Quite peppery, with grass, green apple and white oak. Thick and syrupy.

Swallow:
The finish gives quite the crescendo with ginger, cinnamon and ‘bourbon cask’. Also some corky apple, oak, barley, straw and grass.

Short notes, but believe me when I say I like this dram. I didn’t have any problems finishing the sample given to me. My first encounter with The Maltman range, but after adding to my experience at Hielander Whisky Festival, still my favourite bottling!

I’m not overly familiar with Ben Nevis, but I know it’s quite an unpredictable distillery in terms of quality. Some sherry casks are overly sulphury, some bourbon casks very boring. This one hits all the right spots for me, and while there are many dimensions to bourbon maturation, I like how this one emphasises the heavy character of Ben Nevis.

Ben Nevis 21, 46%, 1990-2012, The Maltman. Available for € 98 at WhiskyBox

Thanks to Frank for the sample!

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Bowmore 2000-2010, 58.7%, Svenska Eldvatten

The fourth and last Sweden-themed sample. This Bowmore is from a Swedish bottler called ‘Eldvatten‘ which means fire water. A name that gives a certain promise, if there ever was one.

There were 253 bottles for the Swedish market. Regarding the price, I don’t have a clue what it cost originally, but now it’s worth about € 110 according to Whiskybase.

Bowmore 10 by Svenska Eldvatten

Bowmore 10 by Svenska Eldvatten

Sniff:
This one also goes in the rather spicy direction that was encountered with previous three samples. The difference is that with this bottling, it wouldn’t have surprised me anyway. The spiciness is far less pronounced than in the Mackmyras. That might indicate that this one is not (as) tainted, or that cask strength booze can hold its own.

Anyway, the scent also has a heavy leatheriness, with a spirity and plastic note. A lot more smoke than you’d expect from a Bowmore, with straw and salt. Behind all that lurks a fruity sweetness.

Sip:
The palate is sharp with white pepper and smoke. Straw, but also white grapes. The flavours keep increasing to a more bombastic version of itself, but with all that it stays rather crisp too.

Swallow:
The finish is a lot sweeter all of a dsudden with crisp berries, a little acidity and Bowmore’s spirit. Smoke and straw seem to be a theme in this dram.

I’m honestly not sure whether or not this one is tainted. It fits Bowmore’s more recent profile like the Tempest bottlings. Those always reek a bit, which I love. As I do this dram. It’s simply delicious.

Bowmore 2000-2010, 58.7%, First Fill Bourbon Barrel, Svenska Eldvatten.

Thanks to Anki for the samples!

 

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