Westward Whiskey, 2yo, Oregon Straight Malt Whiskey, 45% – House Spirits Distillery

Another one of those long titles for a simple review. I have to admit I had never heard of this distillery before my whisky buddy Shai sent me this sample. Not hearing of the distillery automatically means never hearing about the whiskey either. I even had to look up what Straight Malt Whiskey meant.

In this case, it’s a Malt Whiskey. Just like Scottish Single Malt, but just two years old. I find these indicators in the USA rather confusing, since in this case they could have called it single malt. The straight indicator is used similarly to bourbon, since it’s two years old.

The distillery is located in Portland, Oregon, smack in the middle of American Suburbia. I wish we had more distilleries in cities like this. Or at least, in my vicinity like in Zaandam, or Alkmaar or so. It would be even better if they actually made some good stuff there, but let’s keep the wishful thinking for another time and see what those folks in Portland are up to.

Sniff:
It’s very gentle, with soft oak notes on the nose. Quite a bit of vanilla too. No surprises so far. Some cinnamon and clove for spices, and behind that you get a whiff of the raw spirit. It’s very smooth, but not completely tamed. I have to admit, so far, so good, it’s better than I expected / hoped for.

Westward Whiskey!

Westward Whiskey!

Sip:
The palate is dry and slightly peppery with crushed black pepper. It’s sharper than I expected with a bit of character. Thick syrupy sugars and vanilla. Some spices again, the cinnamon and clove. Maybe some dried ginger too. The vanilla is almost custard-like but never overpowering. The pepper keeps building up and getting more intense.

Swallow:
Rather oaky again, more so than on the palate. The spices are still here, and there’s a slight burn in my throat, but in a good, masculin way. The finish isn’t too long but the stickiness remains longer than the flavours.

Batch 1!

Batch 1!

I love tasting whiskies like this. It’s reminiscent of a Scotch, but also has some American bits, like the oakiness and big vanilla notes. And, in this case, contrary to a lot of those really young distilleries and whiskeys, this isn’t all bad. I actually quite like it, although it’s a fairly simple dram.

But, compared to some others I’ve tried that were this young, this is recommendable. Getting back to me wanting more distilleries around, if a local still house produced stuff like this around here, I’d be a fan. Now, since it’s small batches and from across the world, it’d be way too expensive to get hold of here. But, still, if you’re in the area there, go try it out!

Westward Whiskey, 2yo, Oregon Straight Malt Whiskey, 45% – House Spirits Distillery. When in the USA, it should be available around € 35 / $ 46

Thanks for the sample, Shai!

Posted in - American Whiskey, House Spirits Distillery, Westward Whiskey | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments

Glen Grant 1985-2012, 26yo, 55.6% – Exclusive Malts, Creative Whisky Company

A while ago I went to a club meeting and Leon Zonneveld, of “Uw Top Whisky” fame (which is considerable among whisky geeks in The Netherlands) brought me some bottles. I paid for them, and shipping which I didn’t need. Instead of paying me back, I opted for him to bring some samples. I like surprises like this.

He brought a varied pack of things I can’t even remember all, apart from that there also was an oldish Glen Moray which I, in the end, didn’t really love. It wasn’t bad, but it was nowhere near as good as I had hoped.

Anyway, this one was also in the pack and it’s been forever since I tried Glen Grant. It’s bottled by David Stirk, in the Exclusive Malts range, which is the range I prefer (Exclusive Casks is usually finished, Exclusive Range is good too but not as ‘exclusive’). Let’s dive in!

Lots of these available from UwTopWhisky

Lots of these available from UwTopWhisky

Sniff:
Much more powerful than I’m used to from Glen Grant, maybe even a little bit austere. It’s a rather typical dram of Stirk’s with some peaches and other fruits, but on a background of what I would imagine is American oak. Quite a lot of it, actually. Very gentle, very easy going. Some dried peaches too, and a hint of leather. Dried herbs, mint I think. The oak is very much present, but not overpowering.

Sip:
The palate is thick and buttery at first, but it does reveal the alcohol after a couple of seconds with some peppery and spicy heat. I just had a ‘Bastogne‘ cookie (a cookie packed with baking spices, we Dutchies seem to love that shit) before and those flavors come rushing back now, so backing spices for sure. The syrupy structure comes back after about thirty seconds of swimming, but it does remain sharp. Fresh peaches, candied fruit and oak. Some vanilla cream and white pepper. Maybe a little too much oak?

Swallow:
The palate has a strange youngish oakiness. A bit like there’s some virgin oak involved, which there is not I presume. The finish is rather long but a tad flat after the rich palate. Oak, some spices and some dried fruits. Not very rich, but still rather tasty. Slightly drying towards the end.

This is a bit of a strange one. While I like the flavors mostly, I do feel this whisky is a bit over oaked. There’s not much info on the bottle, but I assume this was matured in a sherried hogshead. There’s 203 bottles of it, so 26 years in a 250 liter cask support that guess.

Anyway, in a way I like this whisky. I’d give it some extra credit for showing David’s preferred style of whisky (based on what I’ve tasted) which is cool. On the other hand, mainly on the palate this feels like it’s been in oak a little bit too long and the spirit wasn’t strong enough to cope with the wood in the end.

Glen Grant 1985-2012, 26yo, 55.6% – Exclusive Malts, Creative Whisky Company. Available for € 125 from The Whisky Specialist.

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Radio Silence #2

In October 2012 I posted the first part of “radio silence”. This occurred in the days after my daughter Ot was born. This time the cause is similar, but the details differ:

Last Sunday at 0:49 my son Moos was born.

Moos

Moos

Posted in - News and Announcements | 2 Comments

Rosebank 25, 1981-2007, 61.4%. Part 3

Where is part two you might ask. Well, I kind of screwed up on my last post about the Rosebank 25. Apparently I had already reviewed it almost four years ago when I just opened it. I forgot, I didn’t check.

What I did do after finding out is re-reading my post from 2010 (in Dutch), to see how my tasting notes add up. Or how my nose and palate add up, for that matter. I have noticed over the course of a couple of years that I tend to pick up certain scents and flavors more than others, and that those flavors vary from time to time. A couple of years ago I picked up a lot of bread-like scents, then came fruit, now I seem to get pepper in almost every dram I try.

Combine this with the fact that I wrote quite different tasting notes for the same dram at two different points in time and you can easily realize this warrants further investigation.

Now, what did I do? I poured myself another glass of Rosebank 25 and sat down to try it. Again. Of course, having just tasted it, and just read my old tasting notes, I might be a bit ‘directed’ to which scents and flavors I should be picking up, I still think this is an interesting way of going at it.

Rosebank 25, Again?!

Rosebank 25, Again?!

Sniff:
Dry and flowery, with straw and barley/wheat ears. Some daffodils too. It’s more fruity than I thought two days ago, with galia melon. Some fresh orange juice too, with hints of vanilla custard and baking spices. Wet grass, alcohol and some hospital-like ether behind all that. Must be the vast amount of alcohol. It’s drying and chalky.

Sip:
The palate is dry, strong and sharp. The powder found inside Napoleon candies (the lemon ones). Orange, chalky/dusty with straw, barley and white pepper. Alcohol and a drop of vanilla.

Swallow:
The finish has a tiny whiff of peat but that is gone quickly. Sharp, peppery with vanilla and straw. Not too complicated, but long and delicious.

World famous in NL at least.

World famous in NL at least.

To try something else entirely, I also tried it with a splash of water (some 25-30% I guess).

On the nose it stayed rather sharp with more focus on straw and vanilla. A bit more typically Rosebank. Slightly more focus on the spices too with curry powder and ginger. Some pepper too with lemon drops. The palate is sweeter but still sharpish. Warmer, more custard. Vanilla, pepper, alcohol and heather. The finish is dry and less sharp, but there’s still some alcohol burn left. Daffodils and an earthy undertone.

I tried it again while upping the water/booze level to about 50/50 but that destroys this dram. I wrote no tasting notes since it would not make any sense to do so.

To review this tasting experiment, I’m going to do two different things. First, in short, the tasting notes themselves, then the experiment itself. I think that’s the most interesting part.

The tasting notes I made this time are more or less in the middle of the first and second try. I realize I am less tired now than I was earlier this week around 11 PM, and therefore that makes quite the difference. So, first conclusion is to value my reviews when not tired more highly than the ones I do on a random moment when I’m postponing my bed time.

Then, what does this teach me?

Several things, to be a tad more exact.

The most important thing this tells me is something Jon Beach told me last year when we were chatting in his whisky room after some other whisky experimenting. He told me he didn’t believe in tasting notes because “by the time you really get to know a whisky is when you’ve finished more than half the bottle”.

This tells me that all us whisky bloggers are a idiots to try to make sensible tasting notes based on a 2 cl sample of which you don’t know how it was stored, for how long and at what temperatures. It also tells us that if you knew all these factors, you still would only be describing your take on the ‘whisky’ instead of actually describing it in depth.

Of course, that would result in not making any decisions based on tasting notes. Even our own tasting notes. Unfortunately those are all we have if we are lucky. Most of the time you’re not able to taste something before you decide whether or not to buy a bottle and you only have the hype, the marketing blurb and maybe someone else’s description of it.

Kind of a bummer, but since this is all we have to go on, we might as well make the most of it. It also summarizes neatly why I find the ‘explorability’ of a whisky so important. A dram might be all nice, but if I’m spending some serious money on it I want there to be some bits left to be discovered. Of course, not all whiskies have that kind of depth, but it’s not necessary all the time. When I pick up my nth bottle of Maker’s Mark I want a whisky for drinking in summer, with ice while barbecuing. No depth required. Tastiness is key at such times.

So, not all that eye opening, and most of us know this stuff already. But the proof is here again. Our (bloggers’) tasting notes are just indications of a whisky, not a definite guide. We are off some times too, not every situation is comparable to another, however many variables you eliminate.

It makes sense to try as many whiskies yourself before taking anyone else’s ideas as a guideline so you compare your findings to that writer/blogger/pr-dude’s. If you like similar drams, you know you can put some trust in it. Also, pay more attention to the description on a website than to the actual rating. If someone likes peppery whisky and you don’t, you’re not going to find that out by just looking at Talisker’s high scores everywhere.

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Rosebank 25, 1981-2007, 61.4%

Rosebank has a tendency to be ridiculously strong, even at higher ages. I know this is partially due to the triple distillation, but also the fill level must have been ridiculously high to be at 61.4% after 25 years.

The angel’s share cannot have been the regular 2% either, because if you calculate that, you’d get at an ABV of around and about 100%. That seems rather unlikely, so my guess is that this must have been a bunch of ridiculously tight-grained bourbon casks.

Anyway, the distillery is one of those gems that have closed in the last century. This one wasn’t a victim of the 1983-1985 closures, since it closed in 1993 and was demolished in 2002. A lot of the distilleries that closed at some point were not really good at outputting great whisky all the time.

Port Ellen has its great ones, but also a lot of mediocre booze. Brora might be the exception to the rule since almost all of them are at least very good (Except a ‘dark sherry’ finished one from Chieftain’s, that was ruined by the finish). Rosebank also has its fair share of great bottlings, but a lot of the younger stuff that came out in the early years of this century proves they lost track along the way. There are a lot of really boring, watered down bottles too. So, don’t go blind on some distillery’s reputation. You’ll always hear people raving about the great ones, but not so much about the crappy stuff.

Rosebank 25, THE Rosebank 25

Rosebank 25, THE Rosebank 25

Sniff:
It’s dry and grassy at first, with a massive blast of alcohol. You’ll have to let your nostrils get used to that carefully. It’s quite flowery, but light. It’s not as heavy as the scent of roses for example. There’s also some vanilla behind the alcohol and a scent of shortbread.

Sip:
The palate is sharp and dry, but it’s not as sharp as you’d expect from over 60%. There are flavors of straw and white pepper. Vanilla and oak, with barley. Not just the grain, but the entire ears. A flower meadow but not heathery. Some spices, but I’m not entirely sure which ones. Maybe some curry spices and ginger.

Swallow:
The finish, compared to the palate and the nose, is remarkably gentle. It’s warming, and you know it’s a strong dram, but not scorching as you might expect. There’s vanilla again, but not too much of it. There’s barley, shortbread and coconut biscuits.

While the palate is comparable to the not-so-good 22 year old I tried a little while ago, and this isn’t even that much more complex, it is a lot better. Actually, this is a bloody good whisky. The flavours are well balanced and the added alcohol gives it a bit more depth and room to play with it. I didn’t even try it with water while writing this review (I never do and don’t want to add more variables, but maybe I should start with it…).

Anyway, great whisky, but it has gotten ridiculously expensive. It started at some £ 125 when it came out, which happened to be approximately € 125. By now it’s gone up to £ 550 in a best case scenario. I bought it around € 200 and it was worth every penny.

Yesterday I said something about finding excuses to buy whisky. This was one too. I thought the inauguration of my new whisky room/office was reason enough to indulge. I hadn’t bought anything for a little while so I could indulge a bit more than I would normally. I don’t regret it one bit, because this is cracking stuff.

Rosebank 25, 1981-2007, 61.4%. Available at The Whisky Exchange for some £ 550.

Samples available

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Ben Nevis 25yo, 1984, Cask 98/35/12, 54%

I usually try to find excuses to buy whisky. Generally I also try to celebrate the little things, just to get a little bit more joy out of things that would otherwise go barely noticed. Of course, some things warrant a more luxurious whisky purchases than others.

Then, my blog turned two. I needed something special. I found this bottle as a left over in a great little liquor shop in Sint Oedenrode. I added to my excuse that we missed the tour at Ben Nevis because that silly Harry Potter train between Fort William and Mallaig. Long story short on that: Steam engine, very bad weather, not enough power to get up the hill, 2 hours delay on a 2 hour train ride.

Anyway, I picked this up. Back then you could, apparently, get an official 25 year old for € 85 or so. Unfortunately, that time has gone. But I’m glad I picked it up while I could. It’s nice to be able to grab something like this off the shelf.

Ben Nevis 25yo, 1984

Ben Nevis 25yo, 1984

Sniff:
Quite some sherry input, and rather strong on the alcohol too. Some pencil shavings, peach pith and a hint of white pepper. Some leather, furniture polish and slowly a more fruity scent comes through. There’s definitely sherry going on and dates. I dread to say it, but there is some Christmas cake happening. The candied fruits are here too.

Sip:
The palate is dry at first, and quite some peppery heat. Quite some heat indeed. Some peaches and pith. Dates as well, that thick sweetness. It gets a bit more oily after a few seconds. Leather wax, candied fruits and those pencil shavings. Some crayon or playdoh maybe.

Swallow:
The finish is sweet at first, with that syrupy thickness. Then it goes quite a bit dryer. Fruit, dates, peaches. A rather long finish, with that slightly industrial scent of oil, wax, and stuff like that.

This is quite a lovely dram. I find that pencil shavings and leather was combination rather tasty, especially on a background of fruit and sherry. This, to me, is what Ben Nevis is about. I have found some other drams that prove that theory, but also some that don’t. All in all it’s a pretty unpredictable distillery, but this dram turned out just fine.

Ben Nevis 25yo, 1984, Cask 98/35/12, 54%. No longer available, but it has gone up in price, according to Whiskybase.

Samples available

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Benromach 1976-2012, 46%

When the guys read my rather enthusiastic review of their Benromach 10 year old, they apparently were kind of thrilled. I got an email asking whether or not I would like to receive a sample of their 1976 vintage for review.

Since the Dutch are generally as cheap as the Scottish (Scottish cheapness is something they informed me about, so no offense…) I said yes. Not just because I’m cheap, but also because I’m curious and the reviews of the 1976 are universally good, as far as I’ve seen.

Last week the sample arrived and over the weekend I had a wee sip of it.

Since it’s a vintage release, no special occasion or anything, there’s not much to say about the whisky. Let’s just dive in!

Benromach 1976-2012, 46%

Benromach 1976-2012, 46%

Sniff:
It’s not too heavy, but it is very old fashioned. This is how you’d imagine an old whisky has to smell. Slightly spicy with some dried fruits. Old, cracked leather armchairs. There’s an ever so gentle bitter note like in dark chocolate. Dried thyme twigs and dry barley. A tiny hint of minerals and slate, a hint of cinnamon and dried apple. Some wood smoke, like a doused campfire.

Sip:
Barley and oak at first, with a whiff of smoke and pepper. It does have more bite than I expected. Dried coconut. Dried dates, some raisins. Muesli! A hint of bitter, dark chocolate again with a hint of its greasiness without being creamy.

Swallow:
The finish is very old fashioned again, with oak and barley at first. A light hint of sherry after that. Fruit, with that dried coconut again. Some wood smoke too.

While I won’t start screaming ‘epic dram’ right away, this is a dram that I find highly fascinating. It ticks all my boxes and is just plain delicious. It has all the flavors of the 10 year old, but all of them are slightly more timid. It’s an absolutely gorgeous dram that I would find myself sipping in front of a fireplace, with a good book, my slippered feet on a bearskin, that kind of setting.

The dried coconut is something you don’t encounter every day, but since I love that stuff it only adds to how much I like this one.

So, in short: Yes, it’s a great whisky. Very, very good indeed. The only drawback is that it’s very expensive. Currently it goes for about € 600 in England…

Benromach 1976-2012, 46%, available at The Whisky Exchange for £ 485 / € 610

Thanks to Kirsty at Benromach/Gordon & Macphail for sending the sample!

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Clynelish 13yo, 1989-2002, 56%, South African Sherry Butt – Signatory Vintage

Now this is a curious whisky. Technically, if we take all claimed regions and products in account there is no such thing as South African Sherry. Now it’s very possible to create something exactly the same and call it differently (think of Vin Jaune de Jura).

In this case they decided to go for a rather descriptive marking on the label, and I wouldn’t have a clue how the European Union regards this. Officially, there is no South African imported into Europe, and this rule is probably not really enforced in South Africa.

All very interesting of course, but what counts is what’s in the bottle.

Clynelish from a South African Sherry butt

Clynelish from a South African Sherry butt

Sniff:
The sweetness of a sherry cask is here, but I also get the slight sour notes of yeast and what I presume is a flor layer. There’s some vanilla which makes me expect the sherry butt was made with American oak. A slightly weird combination of fruit. Some apples, but also some dried fruits. Not too descriptive.

A tad later I get the more typical Clynelish scents of candle wax and leather. Stewed fruits too, but the ‘stewed’ takes over. Like a meat stew with some treacle sweetness.

Sip:
The palate is sharp with quite some alcohol and white pepper. Oak, and sweetness. There’s fruit with raisins, and plums.

Swallow:
The finish is sweet and still heavy, like that meat stew scent I got. The soury scent of the yeast is back too. It’s long, heavy and waxy.

In close up

In close up

This must be one of the most Mortlach-y Clynelishes I’ve ever had. In this case, it combines two good things, namely the Mortlach beefiness and weight, with the waxy flavours of Clynelish. It makes for a very heavy dram, but also a slightly simple one.

I’ve bought this bottle quite some time ago, but it holds together very well and I actually love it more than when I bought it. I’m not sure what I expected but I wasn’t too thrilled at first. It has grown on me and where I probably went for a bigger blast of flavour, I now see it’s a bloody heavy dram which actually packs quite a punch.

Clynelish 13yo, 1989-2002, 56%, South African Sherry Butt – Signatory Vintage

Samples available

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Candid, 49% – Michel Couvreur

This summer during our family holiday I gave my wife and kid an afternoon off from me and during that short period I went to Bouze-les-Beaune to visit the cellars of Michel Couvreur. The company that is, since the man himself passed away last year.

Now I could go into detail about the company, their philosophy and all kinds of other things, but I am writing that into an article for our club magazine so it’s not going to pop up here, yet. Maybe in another review if I get my hands on samples or bottles from the Burgundian whisky bottler.

An introduction to the whisky is also rather hard, since it’s a blended malt of which not much information is available. When in France I was told that it’s about 8 years old, but that isn’t on the label. A NAS whisky, as there are many nowadays, but Couvreur have been doing that for decades, so they were quite ahead of their time, as it were.

What’s a given with Couvreur is that their whiskies mainly come from first fill sherry butts, and this one is no exception.

Candid, by Michel Couvreur Whiskies

Candid, by Michel Couvreur Whiskies

Sniff:
The bitterness of this whisky is the first thing that stands out. It’s not a spicy bitterness to me, but vast amounts of bitter and salted caramel. Of course, there is a lot of sweetness going on, mainly with peaches. There’s a slight smokiness too, like a doused campfire so not overly peaty. The bitterness goes towards dark chocolate as well.

Sip:
Spicy and bitter at first. Not as sweet as on the nose with peaches and it’s pith. Some chocolate, oak and salty caramel. That salted caramel is the theme of this whisky (and the reason I bought it, I love that stuff). Some red chili peppers too.

Swallow:
The finish is a bit dry and very long. Again, the bitterness of the salted caramel comes through, but it softens quickly into smoked peaches. The smoke is of the wood and heather kind.

I put this on the table, blinded, during my last Blog Birthday Party and as it turned out, it wasn’t for everyone. Some people liked it, others didn’t. I love this stuff. It’s not a very complex dram, but the sherry influence is of a kind that I’m not too familiar with and I love the salted, and slightly burned caramel flavours.

I did find out I overpaid quite severly in France since it’s on at a discounted price in Bussum, in the newly opened webshop of club buddy Nils. So prices vary from € 69 to about € 100, which makes for an interesting bargain hunt.

I tasted some other whiskies from Couvreur while there, and I can say the quality is very high, but in general (this one may be the exception) you shouldn’t expect some flavour bomb since they like to go for more subtle drams of a digestive. In France that means something else than in Scotland I guess.

Michel Couvreur’s Candid, 49%, First Fill Sherry casks, € 69 here (look under M).

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Whisky Wit & Wisdom – Gavin D. Smith

Another week, another book about booze. At least, that’s what it looks like at the moment. For some reason I manage to digest a lot of media currently, varying from movies and series, books to WAY too much stuff on the internet.

This book is an oldie compared to the speed at which new whisky books are released currently. It was first printed in 2000 and contains loads, about 140 pages worth of whisky anecdotes, songs and little tidbits of history.

The marketing of whisky has changed in the 14 years since this book was first printed. Where distilleries focused a lot on their natural surroundings to sell their product, and the image of fat rich dudes in leather armchairs, it is currently very popular to use folklore, especially if it involves smuggling, illicit distilling and all kinds of other endearing criminal activities.

Whisky Wit & Wisdom - Gavin D. Smith

Whisky Wit & Wisdom – Gavin D. Smith

The drawback in that, for this particular book, is that you know most of the stories that focus on a specific distillery. The stories of Magnus Eunson staging a fake funeral to hide casks of whisky, and several others have been used a lot in recent history, so that makes you skip some pages in Whisky Wit & Wisdom.

What I didn’t really like in this book is more on a personal level. I, for some reason, can absolutely not read the lyrics of songs. It annoys me. I miss the rhythm that makes a song a song and just going over lines without them being a song makes them rather silly at best. This is the case with Lord of the Rings as well as this little bundle of very short stories.

So much for complaining. It still is a well researched book with some stories and histories in there that are rather obscure, and lots of bits that indicate that Mr. Smith has read a lot of old books on Highland life.

I preferred to read the personal histories of people instead of the more businesslike stories from Excise Men and distillers, which is in line with my current fascination with stories instead of facts.

If you like to read little shorts without too much depth, very light reading, then this is a book for you. If you want in depth looks on the cultural role whisky has played in Scotland, look elsewhere.

What helps, of course, is that you can get this book for a fiver or so, at Play.com for example.

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