Two old Johnnie Walkers

In a recent mega bottle share from someone else’s collection, I managed to get my hands on these two old blends. Generally blends aren’t too special, but when they were made several decades ago, you get into an entirely different realm of whisky.

Based on my information, which mostly consists of some random Google searches, puts the Red Label in the 1970s, and the Black Label in the 1980s. I would have loved them to be older still, but you can’t have it all, can you?

Generally, when getting into these older blends, there are some things to remember:

  • The balance between malt and grain is much more in the middle than nowadays. Nowadays it’s virtually all grain.
  • Production processes were quite different, especially for the malt components.
  • These things have been in glass for decades, which does impact the flavor to some extent. The lovingly called OBE (Old Bottle Effect).

In short, their modern counterparts are generally pretty shit compared to these oldies. If they have been stored well, of course.


Johnnie Walker Red Label, 70 proof, 26⅔ fl. Ozs., 1970s

Sniff:
Quite tired, is my first impression. And I’m not talking about myself. There is quite a lot of bready grain influence, some malt and other grains. A bit of iron and minerals, which is mostly the Old Bottle Effect, I think.

Sip:
The palate has a lot of maltose sweetness, with quite some vanilla and oak. The iron is present here and gives it a bit of a harsh edge. The sweetness becomes a bit much the longer you let it swim, but the sharp edge becomes rather peppery and that helps.

Swallow:
The finish is a lot more classical for 1960s blends. Lots of malts, some minerals, and more dark bread croutons towards the end.

These old English bottles have fluid ounces and imperial proof, which translates to 40% (*1.75) and the contents becomes something like 757ml.

This one is, even though it’s from another era, still an entry level whisky. Of course, it’s miles ahead of current Red Label, and the OBE is a nice addition to the flavors this has to offer. Still not flying too high, but very drinkable and enjoyable.

86/100


Johnnie Walker Black Label, 12yo, 40%, 75cl

Sniff:
White bread, apples and grapes. Lots of ‘white’ fruit. A touch of minerals with magnesium and chalk. Rather closed off, but there is a bit of sweetness to be detected.

Sip:
The palate is surprisingly dry, with hints of old fruit, cork and wood. Corky apple, leathery apple and pear skins. Quite some grain and a whiff of black pepper.

Swallow:
The palate shows the first whiff of smoke, I expected that earlier. The peat is slightly dry and peppery, with some hints of engine oil and wood. Steampunk whisky?

As with the Red Label, the current version can’t hold a candle to this one. Unless you really want that peaty edge, which I think is much more pronounced in the current bottling. Maybe the decades in glass and the OBE has made it disappear.

Strangely, the whiskies are rather similar and I think this is mostly because they must have been distilled not too far apart. With this being bottled in the 1980s, which most of the whisky industry being mothballed, I think they didn’t use too active casks and tried to go for a bit of a lighter blend, which results in much similarities between this and the Red Label.

86/100


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Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection 2018, Select American Oak, 45.2%

A while ago, to my surprise, this Woodford Reserve Select American Oak was available from Whiskysite, and they had a 10% discount on everything sometime in autumn. Reason enough to try a three times more expensive version of their regular bourbon.

This ‘Select American Oak’ version has been matured in more carefully selected casks made from white oak sourced from the Ozark mountains. That is, according to the attached label, the special thing about this year’s edition.

Every year they do something different with their Master’s Selection. Ranging from using white corn, a sweet mash, a rye mash, cask finishes, and other things slightly different from the norm.

I compared this one to the regular bourbon for which I wrote a review yesterday. Let’s see how it holds up!

Sniff:
It’s a rather timid whiskey, as it turns out. Not surprisingly there’s slightly more oak, but it’s not very punchy. A slight acidic note, with a tiny hint of glue. Cornbread, some pear drops and other hard candy. Cherries, a bit of a floral notes.

Sip:
The acidity I found on the nose continues on the palate as well. Some vanilla sweetness with a whiff of black pepper comes next. It’s a bit dryer than I expected, with some woody astringency. Wood glue, green bark, malt, cornbread. The sweetness is kept to a minimum.

Swallow:
The finish continues very much down the same line with oak, some fruity notes and a sour touch. It’s quite a long finish.

Honestly, this is a very weird whisky. I can imagine Scotch drinkers liking this bourbon much more than the more regular, sweeter version. It has a lot more complexity, and a lot more depth to be explored.

The main drawback is that it is a rather timid whiskey. If I would have had a 3cl sample it’d be gone before you really know how to approach this.

Honestly, I very much like it, although the difference between this and the regular bourbon is in the details. It’s not a difference like between the bourbon and the rye whiskey. Thoroughly drinkable, too.

88/100

Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection Batch 14, Select American Oak, 45.2%, 2018. Available at Whiskysite for € 125

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4 x Woodford Reserve: Bourbon, Wheat, Rye and Double Oak

With the recent upsurge in bourbon consumption and appreciation, I thought it was a good idea to not just rank them individually without any background, or basis. With that, it sounded like a good idea to do a bottle-share of the basics from a certain distillery.

By doing so, we eliminate some variables like distillery equipment and geographical location. We let things boil down to the main variable being the grain mixture, or mash bill, as it is known stateside.

Of course, the Double Oak is the normal bourbon, but finished in a new American oak cask after initial maturation in the same. A bit of an extra kick of wood influence to the normal recipe. Sounds like the bourbon version of Quarter Cask things like Laphroaig does.

Why Woodford Reserve then?

  • Price
  • Availability

Getting some basics in should not cost the world and these are quite affordable for European standards. Compared to what they cost in the USA, I don’t think we should give that too much thought.


Image from Whiskybase

Woodford Reserve Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Batch 0723, 43.2%

Sniff:
The nose is quite heavy with a good amount of oak and lots of vanilla. Slightly nutty, with sawdust and baked cherries.

Sip:
The palate is initially rather light compared to the nose, but gets more woody right after. Dry ground corn, grains, and Brazil nuts.

Swallow:
A rather long finish with a slightly drying effect. Oak, corn and some tobacco.

A very solid entry level bourbon. There’s nothing wrong with it, but it’s more a drinker than a sipper. A tad simple, so to say.

83/100


Image from Whiskybase

Woodford Reserve Straight Wheat Whiskey, Batch 0001, 45.2%

Sniff:
Compared to the bourbon this is a lot more dry, a lot more floral and more light. Some caramel and slightly nutty. Straw and dried flowers.

Sip:
The palate is dry and a bit sharper. I think that’s more the grains used than the 2% difference in the ABV. Love hearts, oak and grains.

Swallow:
The finish somewhat more gentle than the palate, but the dryness lingers, as do the hints of flowers, grass and straw.

I still really like this whiskey. For a more elaborate review, check here.

85/100


Woodford Reserve Straight Rye Whiskey, Batch 0023, 45.2%

Sniff:
It starts off minty with hints of oranges. While this sounds like orange juice and toothpaste, it’s actually quite lovely. Hints of spices, grain and dark chocolate. Not a lot of oak. It reminds me of After Eight chocolates.

Sip:
The palate is rather peppery, chili peppers, mostly. Oak, mint and chocolate with hints of orange.

Swallow:
The finish is slightly dryer than the palate and rather long. Chocolate covered orange jelly, and after eight.

Lots of the good kind of candy in this one. A very tasty rye, especially for such an affordable one. I can imagine thoroughly enjoying this one over the holidays. It seems right.

86/100


Image from Whiskybase

Woodford Reserve Double Oak, Straight Bourbon Whiskey finished in a second Oak Barrel, 43.2%

Sniff:
Very smooth with lots of oak. Sweet with dark cherries, some grain, black pepper and vanilla.

Sip:
Black pepper again, with lots of oak. Dry, sweet vanilla and dark cherries.

Swallow:
The finish is rich and long, with mostly oak and pepper.

Strangely, this is a rather more simple whiskey than any of the others. However, the aromas and flavors are very intense and that makes this is a really solid dram. Of the four I enjoyed this one the most, just because it’s slightly clunky and a bit too straight forward.

I emptied the bottle yesterday, but I know 100% sure there will be another one.

87/100


I’ll try and follow this up with a more special Woodford Reserve soon, I got a bottle of one of the Master’s Collection, which is ripe for reviewing.

Anyway, I really enjoyed doing this flight of whiskeys from a single distillery. It’s nice to do a vertical and find out where an adjustment of just one or two variables takes a whiskey. All of them are lovely, with the standard bourbon being the simplest, obviously. The wheat, rye and double oak are thoroughly enjoyable and especially when compared, they are very interesting.

Posted in - American Whiskey, - Bourbon, - Rye Whiskey, - Wheat Whiskey, Woodford Reserve | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

Allt-a-Bhainne 23yo, 1997-2020, Barrel 102589, 52.4% – WhiskyNerds

Just like yesterday’s post, this one came in a while ago but I wanted it to give it the respect, attention and nasal capacity it deserves.

I find it a bold move by Bram and Floris to release an Allt-a-Bhainne. Not a popular distillery by any means. With having tasted some 5000 whiskies since I started tasting whisky, I think the number of Allt-a-Bhainnes can be counted on one hand.

Then again, I put it to Bram and Floris to select anything they find tasty. I also know they have high standards, although that can sometimes cause a bit of a failed reality-check with their Caol Ila from last year. Even though that is a tremendous whisky…

Image from Wikipedia

Anyway, Allt-a-Bhainne, possibly the ugliest distillery in Scotland, is not popular in the mainstream of whisky drinkers. Let’s give it a go!

Image from Whiskybase

Sniff:
Smooth, and with lots of malt and fruit. Shortbread, biscuits, dough. But also wild peach, apple. Quite dusty too, some peppermint, toast and even some dry tea.

Sip:
The palate is quite smooth, and veers away from the dusty notes. It’s still a bit dry, and there are hints of pepper for some heat. There’s both fresh and dried peach, a touch of bitterness like peach stones. Dried strawberries, raspberries. So still something dusty after all.

Swallow:
The finish is suddenly even more fruity. It stays a bit timid, but the combination of malt in the form of shortbread, with the dried berries works quite well. Like the cookie version of scones with cream and jam. The dryness of black tea suddenly pops up.

I am not entirely sure how representative this whisky is for Allt-a-Bhainne, but it sure is a tasty whisky! There are quite a lot of interesting flavors to be discovered, which is a good thing. What also works is that it is not a generic whisky by any means, and the proper age is noticeable on the palate.

A good pick from the Dutch guys, but a very cask driven whisky. Recommended!

88/100

Allt-a-Bhainne 23yo, 23/07/1997-08/09/2020, Barrel 102589, 52.4%. Available from Best of Whiskies and The Old Pipe for € 200

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Black Tartan 1988-2020, Hogshead 00016, 48% – Black Tartan Limited

A while ago I was contacted by Skene Whisky, and Black Tartan Whisky if I would like to receive a sample for reviewing. He didn’t initially mention what the sample was about, but it had been ages since I was approached by anyone for such purposes.

Anyway, some time later this sample arrived and we were in the middle of quite significant construction work at home, and the dust that came with it clogged up my nose massively. In such a way that only now, after four months and three (negative) Corona tests later, I’m getting back to properly tasting drams again.

Supposedly, this blended malt whisky consists of Macallan, Highland Park and Glenrothes, so a very Edrington focused blend it is! Luckily, these three are generally in very good hands if they’re handled by independent bottlers.

This whisky was ‘blended at birth’, which is why it can be both a blend and a single cask. Birth was in 1988, so at the time of bottling this was 31 years old.

Sniff:
Not surprisingly, there is a lot of oak in this whisky, and there’s quite some vanilla on the nose. It’s rather rich with some Springbank-like funk as well. There’s an interesting bread scent that I can’t really place. No, it’s potato crisps or Pringles, somehow. I also get that with very malty IPAs, strangely (it’s not a bad thing, per se). So lots of slightly roasty malt.

Sip:
The palate is surprisingly fierce for a 31 year old whisky at 48%. Dry, with lots of oak and malt. After a few seconds there are some notes of tropical fruit with apricots. Dark, crusty bread. Black pepper.

Swallow:
The finish keeps up with the maltiness, but the hint of ‘Pringles’ is much diminished. There’s the apricots again, as well as a nice layer of rich oak. The spices of the palate are present too, but much more intertwined with the wood notes.

This whisky shows a remarkable balance, without being tame. There are some spicy notes, there’s fruit and oak too. What takes it up a notch are the funky notes that are especially present on the nose. This makes it quite a bit more interesting than ‘yet another blended malt’, and that’s pretty awesome!

88/100

Black Tartan 1988-2020, 31yo, Hogshead 00016, 48%. Available for £ 248 from Skene Whisky

Thanks to Skene Whisky for the sample! It’s delicious!

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Paul John 5yo, Summer 2017, 57.4% – Cadenhead

Paul John (not Ringo George) is one of those weird distilleries that somehow don’t really resonate with me. Which is increasingly rare since I think about what I tried from them. None of the whiskies have been bad, most have been punching quite a bit above their weight, honestly.

They have quite a range of official bottlings which aren’t too prevalent in The Netherlands, again, as far as I know. On the other hand, I do know there are quite some single casks available from Cadenhead. I’ve tried some in Cadenhead, when international travel was still a thing. Cadenhead also brought some to Maltstock several years ago, which also helped.

And still, they’re not on my radar. My loss, I guess.

Somehow, I got my hands on this sample, but I don’t recall how. It might have been through RvB who is a big Cadenhead fanboy and somehow I see him buying a bottle of this.

With Paul John being a distillery in India, they have a massive Angel’s Share, which results in their whisky reaching maturity a lot faster than their Scottish contemporaries. This, at five years old, is more like a regular 12 or 15 year old Scotch whisky.

Image from Whiskybase

Sniff:
Dusty like an old library. Lots of barley, but quickly there’s some fruit in the mix. Old apples, but also more tropical stuff like pisang goreng, and maybe some mango.

Sip:
Quite sharp, and very dry. Fruity, but also malty. Apple, barley, hints of vanilla, cork, oak. Lots going on.

Swallow:
The finish is very typical for Paul John. Not sure how that is, but all these Cadenhead’s ones are like this. Dry and malty, but also with some fruit, some oak. A bit of a burnt edge to it too.

It’s actually quite ridiculous how much maturity there is in a five year old whisky. It shows depth and quality. However, it sits in a bit of weirdly fruity direction that doesn’t really fit me. It’s a tad too sweet with malt sugar, banana and things like that.

So, in the end this is one of those whiskies that are of high quality, but not really in my preferred profile. Also, it’s no surprise with the high evaporation and costs to get the stuff to Europe, it’s not exactly cheap. Currently it clocks in at € 105 per bottle, but I guess it was a tad lower initially.

86/100

Paul John 5yo, Summer 2017, 57.4%, Cadenhead. Available at Cadenhead’s in Austria and Denmark.

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Russell’s Reserve 6yo, 45% – Wild Turkey Rye Whiskey

The Russell’s Reserve series started when Jimmy Russell selected some barrels to be released in rather limited batches some years ago. Currently his son Eddie Russell is involved too.

These two stalwarts of Wild Turkey Distillery have been around forever and if memory serves, the son of Eddie (grandson of Jimmy) is getting involved in distillery management too.

People working for 60 years at the same company seems to be a thing in America, and things staying in the family is too.

Generally these Russell’s Reserve bottles aren’t available in The Netherlands, but this one recently popped up at Whiskybase at a very reasonable price. With all the ‘Stay the Fuck Home’ tastings I could use something affordable and tasty, with a bit of a backstory to it. A bottle was on it’s way soon.

Sniff:
Some very crisp herbs and spices up front, with mint and aniseed. Right after that the dry rye notes and a whiff of orange comes through. I think I get a tiny whiff of white pepper in the background, as well as some oak.

Sip:
The pepper is much more noticeable on the palate, with fresh black pepper added to the flavors. Again, the orange and mandarin are quite pronounced too. The mint, which is a bit of a staple in rye whiskeys, is pushed back quite a bit. There is oak, after the pepper wanes a bit.

Swallow:
The palate suddenly shows the dry rye notes at first, quite a bit more than on the palate. After a second or two, three, the oranges come by and after that, the dry rye and oak notes linger most.

First of all, this is a very good rye whiskey. It’s not crazy in its dryness, nor is a 90%+ rye whiskey. There is still some sweetness, but the notes of oranges and mandarin, with the dryer notes playing second fiddle works really well. Thoroughly lovely.

What’s also interesting is that this was quite well received in the recent tasting I hosted online. Generally, the people I do the tasting with that are most vocal are Scotch drinkers with a bit of an aversion to anything non-Scotch. However, this one was surprisingly well received, while the general consensus is that the rye and bourbon I serve everyone is a necessary evil in the tasting.

So, quite good stuff at quite the affordable price tag. I might have to pit this head to head against the Rittenhouse BiB soon…

86/100

Russell’s Reserve 6yo, Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey, 90 proof / 45%. Available at Whiskybase for € 52

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Ardbeg Wee Beastie, 5yo, 47.4%

It’s been ages since I bought any Ardbeg. Generally when something new comes out it is either matured in weird casks, combined with a ridiculous marketing blurb, or ridiculously expensive. Often it is a combination of several of these factors.

Then this one came out. An age statement. No non-sense with the casks, just bourbon and a whiff of sherry casks. Instantly I loved the way they approached this bottling.

At five years old it might not be the most interesting bottling, or the best Ardbeg released in the last few years. It certainly is the most honest one. At least, the most honest one that is affordable by mere mortals like myself.

I snagged a bottle up immediately.

After using it in a tasting and giving out some samples to some people, the bottle is already gone. Let’s check why!

Sniff:
Light, fruity, quite spirit driven. Lemon, pear drops. Quite some straight forward peat, but not overly smoky. Salinity with sea weed. Somehow a bit peanutty.

Sip:
Fierce, salty and peaty. Not overly complex and quite green. Some fresh oak, crisp with lots of coastal notes. Some lemon.

Swallow:
The finish suddenly is a bit more straw and barley like, more grassy. Very much Ardbeg, but a bit younger than normal. Salty, coastal, peat, and some hint of citrus fruit.

So, the no-nonsense part of the marketing is carried down to the whisky as well. There is nowhere to hide for the whisky. And it doesn’t need to. Of course it’s not the most complex whisky you’ll drink, and it won’t likely be the best either.

What this is, is a very straight forward Ardbeg that highlights the qualities of Ardbeg if it’s done right. It’s almost like a Lowlands whisky, with a massive coastal peaty note. And it’s lovely because of it.

85/100

Ardbeg Wee Beastie, 5yo, Oloroso and Bourbon casks, 47.4%. Regularly available for around € 40

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Longmorn 15, 2005-2020, Butt 18074, 50.9% – Michiel Wigman

The sixth and final bottling of Michiel Wigman’s ‘They Inspired’ series is a 15 year old Longmorn. Initially this reminded me and some others of the black coloured Longmorn North Start Spirits bottled a while ago and that scared some people. I’ve not tasted that, so no apprehension from me. However, most of those people quickly realized that Michiel would never bottle something that tastes like you’re eating scraps from a wood chipper.

So, a 15 year old Longmorn, from a sherry cask. 238 Bottles came out of the cask and with them being released to the general public last Saturday, there’s still 20 left according to the website. I think Michiel posted on Facebook that there were only three, but that might be a different stash. With a 15 year old whisky clocking in at € 219 (hefty, but that’s what Longmorn costs, nowadays), selling this many, this quickly is quite a feat.

Tasting notes then!

Sniff:
Bold sherry, but gentle. Funky with hints of young Gouda cheese. Slightly yeasty, sherry like spices. Chestnuts, coldbrew coffee, dates. It gets more fruity after a while, with prunes, figs. Quite weighty and rich.

Sip:
The palate is a little sharper than I expected, fruity and with quite some peppery heat. White pepper, and some chili. The fruit is a bit lighter than on the nose, and there are some wood spices to be detected too.

Swallow:
The finish starts on the dried fruit. Peaches, apricots, prunes, dates. Old wood but also some vanilla, cinnamon, pastry.

As expected, this is a cracking whisky. It offers a lot of depth and different flavors to be discovered. I wrote the notes about two weeks ago (still with that cold) but I could still get quite some notes, and that’s something.

I love that it’s not a rather classical Longmorn and offers a bit more depth, and different flavors than just tropical fruit, which is what I associate Longmorn with, generally. A great pick from Michiel, and it makes me look forward to what he’ll be coming out with in 2021!

90/100

Longmorn 15, 03/2005-09/2020, Butt 18074, 50.9%, Michiel Wigman, They Inspired 1. Available at Dutch Whisky Connection for € 219

Thanks to Michiel for sending the sample!

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Secret Orkney 1999-2019, 51.9% – Michiel Wigman

Michiel planned to do another two releases this year, and right after he emailed the participants that he couldn’t find casks of a high enough quality, these two popped up, so here they are. Or at least, here’s one of them. The other one (a 15 year old Longmorn) will pop up tomorrow or the day after.

This secret Orkney, which of course isn’t that secret at all, since this definitely isn’t Scapa, is Highland Park. A 19 year old one, nonetheless.

Michiel was kind enough to send me a sample since these don’t have to be labeled as the regular bottles do. So, tasting notes before the bottles are even on their way.

Sniff:
Timid with heather, straw, some honey. Earthy with some minerals, apple and slate. There’s a slight savory note too, hammy, even. Some sweetness, with a whiff of heathery smoke.

Sip:
Dry, with a bit more heathery smoke than on the palate. Honey sweetness, with stewed apple, straw and oak. A hint of hessian, apple cores.

Swallow:
It’s lingering with some black pepper heat too. Oak, apple, heather, honey.

A 19 year old whisky is by no means a young whisky, but this tastes even more mature than it actually is. There’s a proper ‘old’ note in it, because of the depth of flavor. I expect this also has to do with the cask not being overly active and therefore having a better balance between wood and spirit.

This hits home in every which way, I love the apply notes with the more heavy notes of earth, straw and heather. Exceptional whisky.

90/100

Secret Orkney 19yo, 04/1999-06/2019, Hogshead 93, 51.9%, Michiel Wigman, They Inspired 1. Available at Dutch Whisky Connection for € 177

Thanks to Michiel for sending the sample!

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