Beers of June (and a bit of July)

So, I’ve been on holiday for two weeks, and just before that I didn’t get around to blogging much. Also, our laptop broke, which leaves me not many means of blogging. Add to that the fact that I got a bit fed up with blogging for a bit and suddenly weeks and weeks have passed with virtually no posts, compared to my earlier regimen.

Anyway, I spent my holiday in France, so the beers I had there were all kind of crappy, with a few minor exceptions. French beer is a bit like Dutch wine, I guess. It exists, and it’s potable, but that’s about it.

So, holiday beers first:

Brasserie ‘R de Ratz‘ is a brewery that’s been running since 2001, according to their website. I found their product in the supermarket in Villefranche-de-Rouergue and picked up the Blanche, Ambree and Blonde. That was all that was available. Apparently there are quite a few specials available elsewhere too. Quite a shame, since all those specials look far more appealing than those three I had. These were all rather middle of the road, in the safest of styles.

Then, on a market in St. Antonin-Noble-Val I picked up two beers by Merchien Brasserie, the Noire and their Ambree. The Ambree was slightly more interesting than R de Ratz’s, but the Noire was actually a rather good beer. I was surprised, and it came in a nice 0.5 liter bottle too! Good stuff!

I had some ciders too, since I kind of got the hang of that last year in Brittany. These were fairly random, simply based on what was available in supermarkets and in bars.

  • Cidrier Breton Brut – Loic Raison
    Forgettable, but not bad.
  • Val de Rance Cidre De Bretagne Brut – Les Celliers Associes
    This is a very good one. It’s dry and it is far more interesting than just spiked apple juice!
  • Reflets de France Cidre de Normandie Brut – Cidrerie de Livarot
    This, however, is a shit cider. It’s pushed as a ‘reflection of France’, but it’s not a very shiny reflection.

During the second half of our trip we went back up north to Burgundy, and while we were obviously in wine country, I did pick up some beers from Brassereie de Vezelay. I only tried their Stout and their Bio IPA, and both were very good. Not too exceptional compared to some more exotic English concoctions, but very, very good beers nonetheless. Highly recommended if you’re in the area!

Than some random ones…

  • La OiB – Brasserie Les Plains Monts
    Not sure what this is supposed to be, but it’s utter crap. Sickly sweet and therefore really cloying. Everything a lager style beer should not be. I dumped it in the river. Literally.
  • Thomas Becket Blonde de Bourgogne – Brasserie Larche
    Not sure why I tried this. I knew the brewery makes uninteresting beers, but somehow I gave them another shot. I shouldn’t have bothered.
  • Shilbrau – Brasserie de Saint-Omer
    This was the first beer available to me, when we arrived at our first campsite. It’s really, really cheap lager, but the beer was cold, and the weather was anything but. It worked, but not based on flavor.

Obviously, I was home for most of June, so beers were had. The weather was quite kind, so some were had in the garden, on our new garden bench, with the sun in my face. Times can be good in The Netherlands.

  • Flink – Brouwerij ‘t IJ
    Not remarkable, but far from bad either.
  • Open Rock’n’Roll – Birra Baladin
    My wife brought this from Rome. Never heard of it before, but it was very nice, with some peppery notes on the palate. Good stuff!
  • Trappist Westvleteren 12, 2010 – Sint-Sixtus Abbey
    Well… I think this is here just to brag.
  • De Strijdende Kater – Ramses Bier
    A beer to remember a famous Dutch beer fanatic who passed away last year because of ALS. I believe there’s some charity involved, but the beer itself is rather good too. I missed the fact that it’s an Amber IPA or something, but it sure was good. Big flavors, big hops, big alcohol.
  • Ale Epeteios – Left Coast Brewing
    Good stout. I had a big bottle so this kept me busy for a large part of the evening and the beer suits that slow kind of drinking. Big, thick and rich. Great stuff.
  • Black Bear XX – Alameda Brewing Co.
    Slightly less intimidating and impressive than Ale Epeteios, but still good.
  • Oude Geuze 2008-2009 – Brouwerij Boon
    Awesome, awesome old Geuze. I found a bottle at The Old Pipe, stashed in the back of a cupboard, to the dismay of the owner of the shop who missed that one… It has far more depth than recent editions, and those are already good!
  • IPA 395 – Mammoth Brewing Company
    A really good double IPA, with big and dry hoppy flavors. Worth the tenner (I think) I had to pay for the bottle (it’s a big one)

And my latest homebrew came on steam! I hadn’t been brewing for about four years, so to get back into it carefully, I bought a kit and made that. It turned out as a nice, but not overly rich 80 Shilling Ale, to the Scotch style. I really enjoy
this stuff, so it seemed like the right pick.

Scottish 80/- Shilling – Cocky Rooster Brewing

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Strathisla 1967-2015, 43% – Gordon & MacPhail’s

In the very first bottle share I ever did, which was a Gordon & MacPhail themed one, I had a bottle of 30 year old Strathisla, at 43%. Since that was about six years ago that still was distilled a decade after this one.

Gordon & MacPhail sent me this one for their ‘The Wood makes the Whisky’ campaign, and as usual I am quite late to the party with everybody having reviewed this already. I don’t think that matters much, and I wanted to wait for a moment in which I had the peace and quiet to properly sit down with/for this dram.

A quick calculation gives us the result of this being at least 47 years old. That is properly ancient, by anyone’s standards (when it comes to whisky that is). I doubt many Strathislas from that era were laid down in bourbon casks, so this probably sat its entire life in proper, old sherry casks. It does explain the colour, of course.

Getting back to that first bottle share. From the top of my head there also was a 50 year old Glen Grant (costing only € 200 at the time…), a 33 year old St. Magdalene and a lot of others, of which a lot were really good. Looking back at the post, I think I did a nice assessment of the whiskies and that 30 year old Strathisla ended in the upper part of the list. I really like the profile of those slightly dirty, oak heavy, sherried Speysiders. And old Strathisla does that very, very well.

Image from Whiskybase

Image from Whiskybase

Sniff:
The nose is heavier and more intense than you normally expect from a 47 year old, 43% whisky. It’s quite dirty and earthy with dead leaves on a forest floor, cigars and tobacco. There’s a lot of oak and some pickled fruits. Strangely there is a whiff of a mezcal like smokiness, which only adds to the dirtiness of the whisky. Some minerals and a tad acidic.

Sip:
The palate betrays the lower ABV by being quite smooth. It does not relent on the side of intensity, weight and richness. That mezcal smokiness of minerals, and maybe a whiff of diesel, is back again as well. Lots and lots of oak, dead leaves and some black pepper. A bit oily on the tongue.

Swallow:
The finish is quite unrelenting on the oak front. Lots and lots of wood, on a very ‘Armagnac’ like manner. Even slightly overpowering, but very likable too. The finish is really long and that whiff of smoke lingers loooong.

This, dear reader, is insanely good. It does everything I expected of an old Strathisla, and more. The mezcal-esque smokiness is an true addition to the whisky and it makes it far more interesting that I had dared to hope. The light acidity cuts the weight of the whisky a bit which also makes the almost overpowering oakiness a lot more bearable.

To be honest, everything about this is awesome. I wonder how this would have tasted at cask strength, and I know I’m going to be on the lookout for stuff like this in auctions. Hoping against hope that it’s a bit more affordable there, since this one clocks in at € 700 a pop.

I am considering a bottle share of this bottle, which is probably not going to work out at € 100 per 10cl share…

93/100

Strathisla 1967-2015, 43%, Gordon & MacPhail’s retro labels. € 700 or so in various stores.

Thanks to G&M for sending the sample. Much, much obliged!

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Recalibration

As you might have guessed, blogging has become less of a priority of late.

Whereas I normally posted about four to five times per week, I’ve only posted some six times in the last three weeks. That’s 60% less than I usually would.

This has a plethora of reasons:

  • My own laptop is broken, which means I have to use a computer (and time) at work
  • We’ve been ridiculously busy at home
  • This results in me not having many reviews to post

The biggest reason, however, is that I don’t really feel the urge to blog about every dram that I drink lately. I’ve got quite a few samples lined up, but sometimes you just want to drink a whisky instead of going through to the trouble to write tasting notes and rewrite them online.

Too many bottle shares. This was just last month

Add to that that I barely know where to begin. Some samples have been waiting to be tasted for years, some bottle shares I did a year and a half ago have not been wrapped up. Without wanting to sound like a nervous wreck, it’s becoming quite overwhelming.

So, based on that, I’ve decided to get a bit more focus in what I’m trying to do here. The result will be less posts. The posts I will publish will be of drams I really find interesting. This does not necessarily mean the best of the best, but just stuff that’s not ‘generic’.

I think those reviews are for more interesting to read as well, since you can read about the next ten year old <enter distillery name here> from bottler <enter bottler name here> anywhere, and it’s not very relevant anyway.

In a way, it’s going to be the same as my personal collection: Quality over quantity.

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Wolfburn 3yo, 46%

Wolfburn is one of the newest kids on the block that has come on steam three years ago. They recently released their first real whiskies, with this one being the first normal release. There was a inaugural release, but from my perspective that was sold more as a collector’s item than anything else, since the price was really high for a three year old. Also, there was the wooden box and all kinds of luxury.

Anyway,  the first three year old. No small thing for a new distillery to get to that milestone. As far as I know they didn’t market the this out of it and just announced that the whisky would be there.

Clever guys as they are, they sent out some spirit samples a few years ago to show how promising everything already was, and it was promising. They try to make whisky in a slightly more old fashioned style, like it might have been a hundred years ago when there also was a distillery in Thurso.

Sniff:
It’s still young and spirity (really, Sjoerd, really?) but much more rich than I expected. Lots of straw and grass. Some dried herbs and some oak. Slightly earthy with dead leaves.

Sip:
The palate is a bit sharp and light, but not thin at all. Slightly tingling and dry, again with those leafy herbs. Some sawdust, straw, barley and dry, dusty dirt. There is some oak, but not much of it and I don’t think they tried to force it onto the whisky to make it taste older.

Swallow:
The finish is nice and quite consistent with the palate. It’s a bit more sweet than before and there’s a touch of vanilla. Quite long, for such a young whisky.

While this obviously is a very young spirit, it is a very nice one. Every bit of it is really promising and if they keep the oak in check they might be on their way to a really good, spirit driven drink.

I love the fact that the straw, barley and light herbs are driving the flavors of this dram and that it’s not some overly vanilla-y whisky that are so popular right now. I think there’s mostly refill bourbon casks in the mix and that’s a clever choice. Great stuff, recommended!

85/100

Wolfburn ‘Hand Crafted’, 3yo, 46%. Available everywhere for just under 50 euros.

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Two Scallywags, 46% and 54.1%

Last week the guys at Douglas Laing organized a Facebook Live event, in which they broadcasted a guided tasting of some of their range. Fred Laing and Jan Beckers talked us through five drams in a rapid fire session, it took about an hour.

It was a first for me regarding Facebook Live and it works quite nicely, although there is far less interaction than during a Twitter Tasting. The benefit is, however, that it doesn’t take forever. Somehow on Twitter most tasters think they have to write a book about every single dram, which means it sometimes takes half an hour to go through one. I find that less and less appealing and find that I’m not trying to get in any Twitter Tastings because of it.

Scallywag then. It’s one of their regional blended malts, like Rock Oyster, The Epicurean and Big Peat. This one is the Speyside one, and as with most blended malts, you don’t know what goes in the mix.

The 46%, which was the first release under the brand, has been around for about two or three years. They added a cask strength edition last year and now they’ve released batch two of that. The difference in ABVs of the cask strengths indicates it’s really cask strength, not just high strength (then they’d probably have kept it at the same level).

Scallywag, NAS, 46%

Sniff:
Sweet with a scent of barley at first. I then get sweet smelling flowers, some oak. There’s a hint of orange and more and more barley.

Sip:
The palate is slightly dry. As on the nose there’s a lot of barley and grains and a lot of sweetness. Slightly sharp with hints of orange, sweet citrus fruits, some pepper and baking spices.

Swallow:
The finish is light, a bit sharp still. There are some baking spices and I get some vanilla, and some oak.

A nice enough dram, but more an easy drinker than a whisky for tasting or exploring, in my book. I find it not as layered as I’d like and the whole feels a bit thin, even though it’s at 46%. So in short, it’s far from bad, but it also not something I’d buy.

81/100

Scallywag Cask Strength, batch 2, 54.1%

Sniff:
The bourbon influence is a bit bigger here. It’s richer, sweet and fruity with lots of barley again. Orange, alcohol and slightly bitter.

Sip:
The palate is sweet and fruity, and slightly more smooth than I expected. There’s orange and peach. That bitterness from the nose is here again and I think I get some anise.

Swallow:
The finish is a slightly sharper version of the regular Scallywag.

It’s interesting that the finishes are so similar, while the palate are far more different. This one is slightly better than it’s 46% brother. It’s not as thin and a bit richer every step of the way. Having said that, it still isn’t the most interesting dram you’ll try.

This one will be released soon, I’ve not found it in any shops yet.

83/100

The regular Scallywag will set you back a little over 40 euros, and the cask strength comes in at about 65 (based on the prices for batch one)

Thanks to Douglas Laing for sending samples!

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Springbank Local Barley, 16yo, 54.3%

Ah, Springbank Local Barley. I think I have tasted two of the 1965/1966 ones and those were some of the best whiskies I’ve ever had. Now there’s a new one, although there have been some releases for the Springbank Society over the years.

This one is a bit of an over hyped beastie. When it came out people jumped on it like there was no tomorrow, but in the end you could get the bottle practically anywhere. Of course, you still had to know people to be part of the first wave of bottles to come out. The second wave was already a tad more expensive. But, long story short, you could get bottles if you were quick enough.

The concept then. Contrary to the ‘home grown’ barley from Highland Park, which means it’s Scottish, it means local. Local as in, a farm just a few miles from distillery on Kintyre. The farm is called Low Machrimore Farm, in Southend on the tip of Scotland’s penis.

I really like the local idea of the whisky and it makes it a true Campbeltown malt with everything being done and originating close by. According to what I read on the internet this is the first (and oldest) of five releases.

Sniff:
The nose focuses almost solely on the malt. It’s a tad dirty like any good Springbank, slightly more than normally so. Some oak, some salinity. Apple cores, including the bitter seeds, pear skins, straw. A touch of menthol in the slight smokiness, not unlike cigarette smoke.

Sip:
The palate is dry, sharp, sweet and slightly woody. A touch salty and quite oily, with a lot of grains being present too. Some peppery heat with a bit of vanilla. Mostly barley malt though.

Swallow:
The finish is sweet with quite a lot of alcohol kick. Some menthol. Quite long with vanilla and light smoke. A true Springbank.

The only drawback I can think of for this whisky is that it’s a fairly simple whisky. On the other hand that same simplicity is also one of the great things about it. It’s not distracted by strange casks, or other things.

The focus on barley in combination with everything that’s good about Springbank makes this an awesome dram. An important dram since there’s so much focus on tricks with whisky nowadays that this kind of old fashioned straight-forwardness is not something to scoff at. I wish more distillers went this way.

Salt, smoke, barley and oak. All combined in an oily sip of whisky. Absolutely gorgeous!

Tip: Get more than three cl of this to taste. This is one of those whiskies that gets better with a few glasses, simply because the simple (but awesome) profile isn’t something that normally stands out.

91/100

Springbank Local Barley, 16yo, 09/1999 – 01/2016, 54.3%. Currently available for just under 200 euros.

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Kilchoman 2010-2015, 4yo, PX finish, 58.3% – OB for The Whisky Exchange

In my seemingly endless stash of samples (I really should stop buying bottle shares…) I recently found this sample from The Whisky Exchange. It somehow got in the back of the box and I can’t really keep track of each and every Kilchoman that comes by. There’s quite a lot of those…

Anyway, a very young Kilchoman finished in a Pedro Ximenez cask, which means it can’t be a long finish either. Four years of maturation doesn’t really warrant finishing for years, so I expected this finish to be a thin layer over the bourbon cask base of the whisky.

In a way, according to the SWA this is an illegal whisky, but this rule has never been enforced as far as I know. According to information I got from them in 2012 (via Gal) a single cask can only be called a single cask if it’s been in the same cask from distillation to bottling. With a finish, that’s never the case.

I’m not trying to get this stuff off the market since I don’t really care what the SWA thinks about many things. In fact, apart from doing legal battle in, for example, India to protect the name and reputation of Scotch Whisky, I don’t agree with much of their regulations and I think they inhibit progress and innovation.

What does matter, is how good this whisky might be.

Sniff:
There’s lots of untamed peat on the nose and a light hint of wood. Some malt and quite a bit of sweetness and smoke. The sherry is, as expected, not very big and the bourbon cask influence is maybe still bigger than the PX. Some red fruits.

Sip:
The palate is rather sharp, hot and peppery. Sweet fruits, sponge cake and sherry trifle. Some fruit mix, the canned kind, and bread. The heat keeps building.

Swallow:
The finish really shows typical Kilchoman notes. Peat, smoke, fruits. There’s also the more uncommon notes of the fruit mix and trifle.

As I expected the bourbon cask is more present than the sherry finish. The latter has nicely added a bit of sweetness and some other fruits. This combination of flavors makes for a slightly more interesting release from the tiny Islay distillery.

However… There’s always a ‘however’…

However, with the plethora of Kilchoman bottlings out there, it doesn’t really stand out. With 273 different whisky releases (not counting the spirit) in less than 8 years it’s hard to find a truly unique bottling, and this one isn’t it.

Keep in mind that this is far from a bad whisky! It’s just a bit, well, forgettable. And not just the sample sitting in the back of your cupboard.

84/100

Kilchoman 2010-2015, 4yo, PX finish from cask 679/2010, 58.3%, OB for The Whisky Exchange. Available there for € 115.

Thanks to The Whisky Exchange to give me a sample!

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GlenDronach 1990-2013, 22yo, 52.1% – Silver Seal

As soon as Silver Seal is mentioned, my interest peaks. While they are an expensive bottler and by no means do I trust them blindly with two hundred hard earned euros, they do have an impressive track record.

My favorite bottling so far is their 18 year old Highland Park, which I was lucky enough to review a few years ago. It still pains me that I didn’t buy it when it was less than half the current market value.

I heard, from the grapevine, that Silver Seal is extremely picky when it comes to cask selection. Probably more so than others, as far as I know.

GlenDronach is a distillery that focuses on sherry casks, and I have the feeling that that’s where Silver Seal’s preference also lies, so a combination of the two should result in some top notch whisky, I think.

Also, GlenDronach is a distillery that’s recently been sold to Brown-Forman, so we can only guess what’s going to happen there, in the near future. I think the focus of the sales and marketing divisions will shift towards the United States some more, and it wouldn’t surprise me if the single cask releases would be dialed back a notch or two. We’ll wait and see…

Sniff:
Obviously the sherry is available, and there’s tobacco leaves and oak. Some dates, both dried and their stones. A bit of red fruit after a while and it’s slightly earthy as well.

Sip:
The palate continues to be earthy and has the flavor of those tobacco leaves. Slightly sharp and dry, but very rich too. Dried dates, the bitterness of the stones too. Lots of sherry with candied fruit. Not very typical, maybe even slightly meaty.

Swallow:
The finish is smooth with, again, that rich earthiness and the tobacco leaves. Very nice, not too sweet and quite long.

Well, this isn’t your textbook GlenDronach. It does have most of the denominators but it has far more too. It’s a tad more bitter and earthy, which happens to be characteristics I like. In a way, this reminds me of those great sherried Mortlachs that are quickly becoming extinct at the moment.

In short, this is an insanely good whisky. Quite an expensive one too, according to Whiskybase (it clocks in at some € 330 a pop). But still, to bottle share this would be a good one! Highly recommended.

91/100

GlenDronach 1990-2013, 22yo, cask 6921, 52.1%, Silver Seal

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Talisker Neist Point, 45.8%

So, Talisker Neist Point. A lot has been written about this when it came out.

The usual suspects being quite outraged by its initial price tag of close to € 150. What also doesn’t help is that it’s a NAS whisky with the standard descriptions about it being flavor driven, a combination of old and young whisky and all that non-info.

What, most likely, infuriated those who actually bought a bottle back then is that it’s currently available in regular markets for € 80 or so. Often, it’s discounted to lower than that, since this whisky is everything but popular.

So this left me with a bit of trepidation. I generally like Talisker. Their 10, 18 and 25 year olds are all quite good and especially the ten is a good go-to whisky for just about everyone.

What I’m always a bit cautious about is their NAS range, which consists of Port Ruighe, Storm, Dark Storm and Skye, although I kind of liked the Storm. So, now there’s another one that trumps all other NAS’ by price.

Sniff:
There’s a light smoke, some straw and vanilla. A hint of pepper and a tiny bit of salt. A bit of grass, some wood. Nothing unexpected. What is unexpected is how thin it smells. Some pastry like grain flavors. It gets a bit richer with some air.

Sip:
The palate is slightly more spicy with more pepper. The combination of old and young whiskies is noticeable, but it doesn’t taste like it married well. Quite dry, with a bit of oak later on.

Swallow:
The finish is a bit warmer than the palate, but otherwise quite similar. Maybe a tad sweeter too.

The problem with this whisky is that it’s incredibly boring. Like, there’s nothing unexpected, and what is there doesn’t stand out from a quality and depth perspective either. It’s ‘yet another Talisker’. No unexpected flavors, nothing.

It’s about the same price as the 18, which is infinitely better, and about twice as expensive as most other releases. I just can’t fathom the reason for buying this, since just about every other Talisker is either better, or priced better.

Having said that. It’s not very bad either. As in, there are no off-notes, the flavors and scents are all pretty okay. It’s just that there are so many others out there that offer far more for the same amount of money, or are a lot cheaper.

Conclusion: just buy the 10 years old. This is a waste of money.

79/100

Talisker Neist Point, 45.8%

Edit: score lowered based on further tasting.

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This is not a Luxury Whisky, 53.1% – Compass Box

About a year after it came out and therefore also a year after I could have scored much more hits with this review, I’m finally getting around to typing down my thoughts about this blended whisky by Compass Box.

This one got the company in trouble with the Scotch Whisky Association, again. They disclosed the entire make-up of the booze, including the ages. Apparently openness is not applauded with the SWA and it was seen as marketing the wrong ages of the whisky. You can only disclose the lowest age, which is rather silly if you ask me.

Anyway, apart from that the name ‘This is not a Luxury Whisky’ never really sat well with me. It’s based on Belgian painter René Magritte’s ‘Ceci n’est pas une pipe’. Which was called that, because it was an image of a pipe instead of a real pipe. Now, they make a whisky that is not a luxury whisky. However, the € 175 price tag begs to differ.

It’s a blended whisky made up of:

  • 79% Glen Ord, 19yo, first fill sherry butts
  • 4% Caol Ila, 30yo
  • 10.1% Strathclyde, 40yo
  • 6.9% Girvan, 40yo

(I’m not marketing anything, I’m not doing this review based on a sample supplied by Compass Box. This is just me.)

Sniff:
Some big scents, but rather smooth. Some vanilla, oak and chalk. Spices with also a bit of creaminess (that’s the Caol Ila, I guess). The spices are, well, European and not exotic. Some cheese and a light earthiness.

Sip:
The palate is a bit more spicy with white pepper (so mostly heat and little flavor) and other spices. Oak, chalk. The creaminess is back again too, and a flavor of twigs and leaves, and maybe some pine needles.

Swallow:
The finish is pretty long and (you guessed it) spicy. Creamy with notes of oak and a bit more sweetness than on the palate. Vanilla, with plants and bushes (the twigs again).

Compass Box may not consider this a luxury whisky, or probably, they do but the wanted a fancy name for it based on art (like with their newer ‘The Circus’ based on a Charlie Chaplin movie). I think it is. The blending is phenomenal and the base of Glen Ord is clear with the plant-like notes and the white pepper. Caol Ila makes itself known in the creaminess and the grain whiskies come back in the hints of vanilla and oak. Very well done!

Honestly, I’m surprised this hasn’t sold out yet. Then again, I didn’t fill up my bottle share when I bought this either. Apparently people still need convincing that everything Compass Box does is quite cracking. Maybe the only company out there at the moment that I will blindly buy when stuff comes out (if I can afford it, that is).

89/100

This is not a Luxury Whisky, 53.1%, Compass Box. Available from Compass Box for £ 150

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